Flipping any YouTube video

Something I just learned. If you go to the URL of a YouTube video from the website (not the app) and replace YouTube or m.youtube with mirrorthevideo it will flip any video so you can view it mirrored. Great for turning any right, or standard,  knitting or crochet video into a mirror or lefty video

Tunisian lattice throw

This throw is tunisian crochet on the bias and has a simple but elegant texture. For mine I used Caron Simply Soft in Heather Grey and it took about 5.25 skeins. This pattern is written and will allow you to make this as wide or long as you like. If you want to switch up the edging or add open spaces to it, it is easy to modify.

The pattern is written

Tools:
Tools 6mm / J extended tunisian/afghan hook (or long straight hook). 6 skeins 1500 yards / 852 grams Caron Simply Soft Heather Grey

I have 3 downloads for this pattern.
Tunisian Lattice Throw- mirror. This pattern includes photo instructions on how to create the tunisian stitches and they are left handed.
Tunisian Lattice Throw - standard - This is the same print but I have went and flipped all the images so they appear right handed.
Tunisian Lattice Throw - Chart (left hand) - This is a chart for this pattern. It is a left hand chart ( read left to right) if you are right handed and read patterns right to left you will want to either go into your advanced printers settings and print this as a mirror image so that you will be able to read it right to left. Or just read the printed chart left to right. This chart does not have detailed stitch directions so use it along with the instructions on the written patterns.


The 1st pages are just bare bones with 2 images. I than follow with photos on separate pages to show how to do the various tunisian stitches required for this pattern. This will allow you to just print the pattern or print the photos and tutorials.

I think this blanket works best with a medium shade yarn. Nothing to bright or dark or the texture will be harder to see. Also I chose a solid grey but Tunisian tends to play well with variegated yarn.

This would make a lovely large blanket, just be cautious to make sure you purchase enough yarn as this does consume a LOT of yarn!

This is also on Ravelry

I don't know why these pictures are showing up sideways, 

back bar single crochet

This is a technique that I cam up with when someone posted a "how is this done?" photo. This is crochet through the back bar of the stitch and it is always worked with the right side of the fabric facing you.

When working this flat, you work 1 row and break your yarn and return to the beginning to start the next row new. By working through the back bar of the stitch you are pushing forward the top edge which leaves the right side of the fabric showing the braided edge of each row. This also results in a denser fabric. 

I recommend using a larger hook and a non splitty yarn to be sure you can get your hook into the back bar of the stitch. For the initial chain I worked it with a hook 2 sizes larger than the one I did the work with to help eliminating a tight edge.

This also will bias hugely as it's worked all from the right side. There are ways to counter this effect and I will mention them later. Due to the tails on each side, this is also a great fabric to add fringe to, especially if you are working each row in a different color.

This makes a nice fabric for a place mat, or a unique texture for a scarf. You can work it in the round to create a unique striped edging for a blanket.

this is the fabric from the back. You can click on the images to enlarge them.

To start, chain a desired amount for the length you wish to make. Use a hook 2 sizes larger than your working hook to make sure your starting chain does not get to tight while working into the stitches.

* I always prefer to work my 1st row of any project through the back bumps of the chain. This creates a nice edge.

After you have made your chain, turn and switch to the smaller hook and now  work 1 row of SC. I like to end with a chain one than break my yarn. (this is the right side of the fabric)

After this point you will always have the right side facing and you will be crocheting into the back bars of the stitches.

Return to the start and join with a single crochet into the back bar of your 1st stitch. 

 

 

To join with a single crochet place your slip knot on your hook and insert your hook into the bar, yo and draw up a loop, 

yo and draw through loop and slip knot on hook.

Continue working accross the row working 1 sc into the back bar of each stitch on the previous row. 

When you reach the end the last stitch can be hard to see. This one is a bit harder to see because i left my ends loose.

Here I have 1 stitch left to make

Continue to work 1 sc in each back bar to the last stitch and chain 1 and break yarn

Working every row as stated above will result in a fabric that slants on both sides. This is just the nature of this stitch.

 

If you wish to minimize this effect or shape the bottom differently, you can work 2 sc into the 1st bar of the row and on the last 2 stitches sc them together (insert hook into next stitch, yo draw up a loop, insert hook into last stitch yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 3 loops on hook). doing this on every row will result in the fabric slanting the opposite way. Alternating every 5 rows or so between regular and the shifted rows will result in a edge that has points.

To make the edges more straight. work one row regular, stitch for stitch to the end. and work the next row with the sc2 in 1st bar and sc2tog in last 2 bars. this will help keep the edges in a straighter line.

On the 1st 3 rows of the pruple here, I have worked them as the shifted rows starting with 2sc in 1st bar. you can see the slant is gong the oposite way as the edg in the fabric below the purple.

the rest of the purple is worked alternating rows which has caused a straighter edge.

this is how the solid section will look from the back

and form the front

Lacy shells edging

 

This is the edging I put on my Lapse of Reason moebius wrap. The wrap pattern is available for free on Ravelry .

I used an I hook, which is compatible to the size of the knitting needle I used. 

Stitches/terms used used

ch - chain

ss - slip stitch

sc - single crochet

dc - double crochet

sp - space

sk - skip

st - stitch

This edging is worked over a distance of 9 stitches on the edge of what ever you are attaching it to.

Personally I do not worry about exact stitch count of the fo that I attach it to, I just follow the pattern and when I'm about 1/2 way to the end I figure out if I have enough stitches to complete the pattern. If I have a few to many stitches than the pattern calls for I'll just skip a total of 4 here and there when working the edging to make it come out correct. Or if I don't have enough I'll just skip 2 instead of 3 stitches on the edge a couple times spread out so it evens up.

I worked this wrap using Caron Simply Soft and I bound off the knitting in single crochet by inserting the hook into the 1st stitch to be bound off , yo and draw up a loop, *insert hook into next stitch to be bound off, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook* Repeat around untill all stitches are bound off. This is the same bind off as the knit stretchy bo but it's just easier for me to do in crochet.

For the edging I attached my 2nd color at any stitch.

Round 1: ch3, sk next 3 st on edge of wrap, sc in next st, ch3, sc in next st, ch3, sk next 3 stitches on edge of wrap... repeat around join with a ss to beginning of round.

Round 2: *ch3, ss to 1st ch, sk next ch3 sp, (dc, ch3, ss to 1st ch) 5 times in next ch3 sp, sk next ch3 sp, ss to next sc* repeat from * to* around. join to beginning of round. break yarn and weave in ends.

felted crochet slippers

I can't take any credit for these awesome felted slippers but realized it was just taking to long to knit them and figured "why take extra time to make something that is going to be felted down anyway?" so I frogged and did them in single crochet.

Now that being said, I have never felted before so I only made 1 slipper. Seeming how I was not following the pattern (crocheting instead of knitting) and I was "winging it" for size and had nothing to reference it to (never felted before) so I couldn't even guess if it would fit. I figured it would be safer to make just 1 slipper, felt it and see if any adjustments needed to be made. But it turned out to be a perfect fit. These are defiantly mens sized though, I have a rather wide foot and I actually wear an 11 in mens. I ran them through the wash on hot/cold 2x to felt them down.

I wanted to try these because my uncles are coming in and I thought it would be fun to make them felted slippers but send them home w/the slippers not felted so they can shrink them to fit. All my family is really crafty so I think it would be neat for them to do. And I had one uncle a long time ago ask if I knew how to make slippers that didn't wear though because he loved home made slippers but wore holes in the bottoms to easily.

When I was knitting them per the pattern instructions, I was making the mens size. So when I started to crochet them, I compared my square sizes and I made sure my square was the same size as it was when I was knitting them.

Yarn: fisherman's wool
Hook: I (5.5mm)

My mens size squares are 18 stitches wide (single crochet) and 20 rows each

I'm thinking that for womens size I will likely make them 15-16 stitches wide and 17-18 rows per square.

I followed the same construction directions as in the original knitted pattern crocheting it in one long strip and than crocheting the 2 "flaps" onto the strip. Also I found the construction a tad confusing so I made little tags and tacked them to the edges that needed to be sewn together to help keep things straight. At 1st I didn't do this and I sewed the A seams together and realized that it would going to be confusing to try to match up edges so I made the tags. When I seamed them I did so rather loosely. The seam yarn is at the same tension as the rest of the yarn, I figured this was a good idea and it turns out I can't even feel the seams ♥

To better understand the construction and square placement, I printed out the diagram after filling each square with a different color and cut it out and taped it together per the pattern instructions.

Oh, I didn't like how shaggy the outside of the slippers looked after felting so I took our electric hair clippers to them and shaved all the fuzzy off the out side.

Now I just have to make the other one... and many more♥




I finished the slippers! Here are some various shots of them in diffrent stages.

I did find that I liked the fit much better if I sewed the cuffs together in the front for about 5 stitches. it just feels snugger. I'll probably go back to the 1st slipper and stitch it closed in the front just a bit.

this is what it looks like before I seamed it

Here's a good size comparison, the 1st slipper is laying on top the new one before I felted it. You can see how much it shrank!

And this is before I took the clippers to it. This is how it looks straight form the wash. Incredibly shaggy! I only shaved down the outside of the slipper and the underside of the cuff flaps. I left the inside and the folded down portion of the flaps shaggy.


3-25-2012

Another slipper update.

I have made another pair of these slippers. I gave them to my step mom and would concider them a childs/large childs size as she has rather small feet and can actually wear boys shoes.

But with these slippers I modified the heels. As the pattern is, it is composed of full squares. but when you seam them together like that the heel ends up with a pointed flap sticking out the back. I simply cropped the corners off the squares that will be seamed together for the heel.

On these slippers each square is 14 stitches x 16 rows.

What I did was on the 2nd square of the strip which would be the heel, I crochet 8 rows at 14 stitches wide. than I reduced 1 stitch per row untill I reached my row height of 16 rows. I attached the next color and worked one row, stitch for stitch. And than I increased 1 stitch each row until I had worked back up to my stitch count of 14 stitches and finished the square to a height of 16 rows.

This does not result in any new seaming directions. I seam them from the toe up as the diagram states. I seam up to one cuff and than start at the broken heel and seam that and work around to the other cuff. This just makes a more rounded heel and eliminates the heel flap.

Here are some photos of how the modified heel is worked.


This is just about finished. I like to have the dark end be the cuffs so that is where I put my modified heel.
And here is a close up of it seamed together. I just think this looks neater.

I do not have a finished, felted photo of these as they were gifted for the wearer to felt.

Classic 10 point hot pad

Classic 10 Point Hot Pad

You can download the PDF pattern for free

This is a classic pattern that has been around for quite a while. I received one and was asked to reverse engineer it. I have created this pattern from that and I have made changes to the design to suit my liking. The pattern is available for free and this blog post is dedicated to explain some of the steps used to make this hot pad.

Also, remember that I am left handed and I crochet from left to right. The downloadable pattern is not hand bias so there should be no confusion for anyone desiring to follow the written pattern. But if you are right handed, these tutorial images will look backwards to you, just reverse what you see here to work the pattern right handed if using the photos.

This is not intended to be used as a pot holder but rater a decorative hot pad, or trivet if you will, to protect hard surfaces from hot dishes.

And a reminder for those looking at these images; you can click to enlarge any of the images for a better view, the photos are high quality and will show up clear.

I will take you step by step to help you use the techniques I used to create this hot pad.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

frsc = foundation row single crochet
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
bl = back loop
invisible join = I did a post explaining this technique
sc join = place slip knot on the hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both the loop and the slip knot.

The entire is worked in 1 continuous spiral working in the back loops (unless otherwise noted) which shows off the spiral design nicely. (this means there's no slip stitches to join and no chain up's to make).

Center:

With Color A Chain 2, 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook, (do not join) Work 2 sc in each sc around until you have 30 sc. on next round work 1sc in each sc (30 stitches) sc 3 (this just offsets your last stitch). Do not break yarn. (30 stitches on ring)

At this point i have finished my center circle and am about to start my frsc.


*Note: If you really don't want to work the frsc you can skip this tutorial and work as
Round 1: ch20, 1 sc in back loop of next 3 sc on center ring. repeat around to create foundation chain for all 10 points.

Round 2: (working into the chain stitches, NOT the chain space) 1sc in next 10 ch stitches, ch2, 1sc into next 10 ch stitches, sc into next 3 sc. Repeat around. continue one with round 2 of pattern as written


Insert your hook into the space you just worked your last sc on the center ring.

Yarn over and draw up a loop yarn over again

And draw through 1 loop on your hook.

Yarn over and draw through both loops you have on your hook

you have completed your 1st frsc! It should look like this.

For your 2nd frsc you will want to place your hook into the space/v in front and also 1 loop behind in the same stitch.

Yarn over and draw up a loop. which is what I have just done in this photo.

Yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook completing your 2nd frsc. Repeat this untill you have made 10 frsc

now you need to ch 2 and this will make the turn for the point. You do not need to take your hook out, I only did so it wasn't in the way for taking the photo. Now insert your hook into the base of the last frsc you made (the 10th stitch as shown in this photo) insert your hook thorough the base of the last frsc in same way you have all the other frsc.

Yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook, yo and draw through the 2 loops left on the hook.

Repeat the steps to make the frsc for 10 stitches. When done you will have a total of 20 frsc and a bend where you did the ch2 as shown in this photo. The black lines point to the 1st 10 stitches and the blue lines point to the 2nd 10 stitches.

When you have completed this step, sc into bl of the next 3 sc on the center ring.

Repeat this step all the way around completing all 10 pints. It will be floppy and look like a jumbled up mess, but don't worry it will come together in the end!

When you have reached the last petal and done your last 3 sc. On the last sc leave 2 loops on your hook and break your yarn leaving a good tail to weave in later. Now join in color B. Complete your last sc that you made with color A by hooking color B and pulling through both loops on the hook.

Round 2-4: With color B sc in each sc around, in ch2 points work (1sc in bl of 1^st chain, ch2, work 1sc in bl of 2^nd chain). Continue in this pattern until you have completed 3 rounds of color B. break yarn and join in color A on last stitch.

Round 5: Work 1 round same as above in color A. Crochet around until you are 1 stitch away from where you started. Break yarn and pull through your last stitch. Skip next stitch and work invisible join into 1^st stitch of color A on this round. Weave in ends.

Now your hot pad is nearly complete! Don't worry if it looks a mess. This is what mine looked like after completing round 5.

Border
Take the points and twist them in the same direction (it doesn't matter which direction you twist them so long as they are all twisted the same way) as you work so that the right side of the center is facing you but the wrong side of the points is also facing you.

Round 1: With wrong side of point facing you, start at the chain 2 corner space and count back 8 sc.

With color C, start at the ch 2 space and count back 8 sc, working in both loops join yarn directly with a sc into this stitch. Working through both loops work 1 sc in next 7sc. Sc, ch2sc in corner ch2 space, 1sc in next 8sc. [Twist next point in the same direction and count back 8 single crochet from ch2 space. 1sc in next 8sc, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 space, 1 sc in next 8sc.] Repeat around until all points are outlined.

Round 2: Working in the back loops of all stitches (including ch stitches); sc in 1st sc of round, 1sc in next 8sc, sc in ch st, ch2, sc in next ch st, 1sc in next 8sc, sc2tog, [1sc in next 8sc, sc in ch st, ch2, sc in next ch st, 1sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog]. Repeat around working your last sc2tog into your 1st st, break yarn leaving a long tail, pull the tail thorugh your last stitch. Skip next stitch and owrk invisible join inot the next sc. Weave tail down to 1st where you made your 1st sc and use it to secure/sew the points together where you joined in color C on round one and the last stitch on the last point of round 1.

I do not know why this image loaded sideways, but this is is a close up of how I finished the edging and weaved in the tail.

Now there is just one more thing you need to do. When it's finished it will look a bit wonky. This is my hot pad just after I finished.

Now just work your way around it straightening out the points and folds and you are done!