Drop stitch moebius cowl

Drop stitch moebius cowl
"The 80's will never die!"

This pattern is available on Ravelry!

Downloadable version

Fingerling weight/sock yarn. I used:

Wild Hare Fiber Studio Hand Dyed Pinnacle Sock Yarn

colorway: Neon Lights

My cowl only took about 2/3 the hank. so this does not use much yarn at all! This particular yarn is UV reactive and will glow under black light

needle: Size 5 interchangable and a smaller size for the opposite end (I used a size 2 on the other end of mine) This will allow you to easily get all the wraps off the cord after they have worked their way around the cable. If you cannot use 2 different sized needles, this will be difficult to make! the stitches choke up on the cable as they work their way around the needle and are difficult to get back off to work them.


Co 155 (multiples of 10+5. Total stitch count will be multiples of 20+10) stitches using cats moebius co. To make the stitch pattern line up properly on both sides of the co edge you need to co in multiples of 10 + 5 giving you a total stitch count of multiples of 20 + 10.

For more information about the moebius cast on and other things about the moebius (including how to deal with wrong stitch counts), see my post: Demystifying the moebius!

Setup round: Place marker at the start of the round and purl one complete round. The 1st half will be really difficult to work as you don't have stitches, but just loops and the loops will be tight on the cabel. To help with this I have interchangeable needles and put the smallest tip I have (a size 2 in my set) on the end I knit my stitches off from. The 2nd half will be easier to knit. This also helps when knitting into the row with all the yo's as they tend to choke up on the cable as its being worked.
Round 1: (k6, yo, k1, yo 2, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, yo) repeat to end, m1

Round 2: purl all stitches. On multiple yo's, purl the 1st wrap while dropping the rest as you work

Round 3: knit

Round 4: purl

Round 5: k1, (yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k6) repeat to end

Rounds 6, 7, and 8 are the same as 2, 3, and 4

*Only work the M1 on round 1. On all other repeats, just work this as a single knit stitch at the end of the row!

Repeat rounds 1 - 8 until the cowl is the desired width. Bind off loosely.

I did not block mine as I like the texture and ripply look of the fabric.

Demystifying the moebius!

I have a couple new moebiuses to post but thought I would post a little trouble shooting and tips post first.

For starters, when I cast on for a center out moebius I use my longest cables. I believe the are 60". I use this for all my center out moebius knits. It's the most comfortable length for me. I also like to put a small tip on the end that i will be knitting off. this makes it easier to get the stitches off the cable.

When it comes to cowls, the moebius is my preferred shape as it lies flat and you don't have any bunching at the twist.

This is regarding the center out moebius knit in the round. You can adapt any stitch pattern that looks good on both sides to a moebius knit! It doesn't even have to be the same on both sides, just has to look good.

I always use Cat's moebius co. YouTube link It's a brilliant and super fast co. But its also incredibly sloppy and somewhat difficult to count as you don't have any actual stitches on the needles until you knit 1/2 way around on round 1. Before that it's just yarn wrapped around the needles and cord.

When casting on you count the stitches being wrapped around the needle only. Each set of wraps creates a wrap on top and on the bottom cord, but only count the top!

If you are converting a regular circular cowl to a moebius, co the same amount the pattern recommends (counting top only).

When converting a nesting pattern like chevrons or drop stitch (as in the cowl I'll be posting) or a staggered pattern. You want to cast on in what ever your pattern stitch repeat is + 1/2 that. If your stitch repeat is 8, for example, you want to cast on in multiples of 8+4. The 1/2 count will let the pattern nest above and below the co line. Your grand total, on a 8 stitch repeat will be a multiple of 16+8 counting all stitches (top and bottom). Here is the cast on of the Moebius waves of Color cowl with 1/2 the stitch repeat added so that it nests (I did a few modifications to the original as well which I detailed on my Ravelry project page).

Now I have yet to cast on a center out moebius and have an accurate stitch count. It could be because its such a fast co that my hands work faster than my brain.

So after I cast on and when I'm working the 1st round, I place markers for counting. Of course ALWAYS use something to mark the start of the round! I place small markers every 20 or so stitches. If you need to adjust your stitch count, make sure to balance it on both sides of the co line! This is extremely important on nesting designs!

If you find you need to add stitches, do it in sets. If you need to add 2 stitches do a M1 and in that same spot on the other side use a locking marker and place it between the stitches on the other side so you know you need to m1 in that spot when you get there. A strand of scrap yarn tied around the spot works to.

If you have to many stitches, decrease in sets as well. K2tog and place a locking marker through 2 stitches on the other side so you know to knit them together when you get there.

You need to increase/decrease in this way for fixing stitch counts to maintain the same amount of stitches above as below to keep things lined up properly when you start your pattern.

Working a moebius flat and seaming into shape

Another cowl I made uses a 20 stitch repeat of 10x10 ribbing. When doing something like this you want a reversible pattern and offset design. When working the cowl, I work it flat like a scarf and seam it on the short ends into a moebius. In ribbing you want your rows to end opposite of how they start. Start with knits, end with purls. When you add the 1/2 twist the sides will line up.

You will also want to make sure any row repeats line up properly. The bubble cowl I made started with a bubble on the 1st column repeat. So I needed to end with a bubble being in the 1st column again so that when the twist was made it lined up properly on the other side. If you have a ribbing pattern and knits are on the left, you want to end with purls on the right so it lines up when grafted.

Also, this type of cowl requires grafting in pattern which isn't nearly as complicated as it sounds. I have a post describing how to Kitchener in pattern which will enable you to Kitchener any combinations of knits and purls. It will also help you to understand what you are doing and to tell where you are at if you have to set it down.

This is the seam of my recent pattern Bubble Moebius cowl.
The seam is the last grey row to the right of the skinny grey strip on the left. On the right you see it flat as a WIP. If you look you will notice that the bubble on the left is knit and the bubble on the right is purl. this needs to be offset like this to be able to make the 1/2 twist required to complete the moebius shape.

 

New stitch pattern - Knitting

Clearly this isn't "new" if I reversed engineered it from an existing fabric. But I just worked this one out for someone on Rav who linked to a sweater and wanted to know how recreate the stitch pattern (I also happen to enjoy challenges as this). I thought I would share here as it's a rather pretty and simple stitch. Also it looks attractive on both sides.

This is a 3 color, 3 stitch, 9 row repeat

Use 3 color and work a different color each row. Trail the yarn instead of cutting if working in the round

 the stitch repeat is 3 stitches and 3 rows. but each set of 3 rows shifts 1 stitch so it takes 9 rows to complete.

this is the pattern written for working in the round

Cast on in multiples of 3

CO in multiples of 3

1. s1wyif, p, k
2. k, k, p
3. p, k, k

4. k, s1wyif, p
5. p, k, k
6. k, p, k ,

7. p, k, s1wyif
8. k, p, k
9. k. k. p

If you are working flat this is the written pattern

1. s1wyif, p, k
2. p, k, k
3. p, k, k

4. k, s1wyib, p
5. p, k, k
6. p, k, p

7. p, k, s1wyif
8. p, k, p
9. k. k. p

Here is a chart. I didn't number the rows and you can use it for flat or in the round. Bold is the pattern repeat. I wrote the slip stitch as keeping the yarn on the right side of the fabric in case anyone uses this for flat work. Keeps it from getting over complicated.

Designing tip

I mostly chart my stuff in Excel. I like it, it's easy and you can do some neat things with it. I'm making a shrug based on a stitch pattern in an old book. The pattern was written so I had to chart it. It's a busy pattern so charting it wasn't the easiest to transfer from flat  written to charted in the round.

This is a section of the chart i printed for decreasing.  Te center is the pattern repeat and the sides are the repeat sections I will be decreasing. I have shaded lines across the chart on the decrease rows and I changed the font for the sections I will decrease to a really light font. I printed this out and it allows me to see what the pattern repeats are supposed to do and I can adjust and over wright with a pen the changes I made as I decrease. I use a pencil and shade in "no stitch" areas as I get rid of sections and can easily decided when it's to narrow to continue in pattern. When I am done I will go back in and make the changes to the chart to reflect what it really needs to be.

The dark row at the bottom is an unaltered pattern repeat for reference to build off of.

Here is what it looks like in progress with notes over written. I take this back to the computer and update the chart.

And this is what I'm working on

back bar single crochet

This is a technique that I cam up with when someone posted a "how is this done?" photo. This is crochet through the back bar of the stitch and it is always worked with the right side of the fabric facing you.

When working this flat, you work 1 row and break your yarn and return to the beginning to start the next row new. By working through the back bar of the stitch you are pushing forward the top edge which leaves the right side of the fabric showing the braided edge of each row. This also results in a denser fabric. 

I recommend using a larger hook and a non splitty yarn to be sure you can get your hook into the back bar of the stitch. For the initial chain I worked it with a hook 2 sizes larger than the one I did the work with to help eliminating a tight edge.

This also will bias hugely as it's worked all from the right side. There are ways to counter this effect and I will mention them later. Due to the tails on each side, this is also a great fabric to add fringe to, especially if you are working each row in a different color.

This makes a nice fabric for a place mat, or a unique texture for a scarf. You can work it in the round to create a unique striped edging for a blanket.

this is the fabric from the back. You can click on the images to enlarge them.

To start, chain a desired amount for the length you wish to make. Use a hook 2 sizes larger than your working hook to make sure your starting chain does not get to tight while working into the stitches.

* I always prefer to work my 1st row of any project through the back bumps of the chain. This creates a nice edge.

After you have made your chain, turn and switch to the smaller hook and now  work 1 row of SC. I like to end with a chain one than break my yarn. (this is the right side of the fabric)

After this point you will always have the right side facing and you will be crocheting into the back bars of the stitches.

Return to the start and join with a single crochet into the back bar of your 1st stitch. 

 

 

To join with a single crochet place your slip knot on your hook and insert your hook into the bar, yo and draw up a loop, 

yo and draw through loop and slip knot on hook.

Continue working accross the row working 1 sc into the back bar of each stitch on the previous row. 

When you reach the end the last stitch can be hard to see. This one is a bit harder to see because i left my ends loose.

Here I have 1 stitch left to make

Continue to work 1 sc in each back bar to the last stitch and chain 1 and break yarn

Working every row as stated above will result in a fabric that slants on both sides. This is just the nature of this stitch.

 

If you wish to minimize this effect or shape the bottom differently, you can work 2 sc into the 1st bar of the row and on the last 2 stitches sc them together (insert hook into next stitch, yo draw up a loop, insert hook into last stitch yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 3 loops on hook). doing this on every row will result in the fabric slanting the opposite way. Alternating every 5 rows or so between regular and the shifted rows will result in a edge that has points.

To make the edges more straight. work one row regular, stitch for stitch to the end. and work the next row with the sc2 in 1st bar and sc2tog in last 2 bars. this will help keep the edges in a straighter line.

On the 1st 3 rows of the pruple here, I have worked them as the shifted rows starting with 2sc in 1st bar. you can see the slant is gong the oposite way as the edg in the fabric below the purple.

the rest of the purple is worked alternating rows which has caused a straighter edge.

this is how the solid section will look from the back

and form the front

Key tag cozy

Key tag cozy

This is something I have been thinking about for a while and finally made because everything needs a cozy!

 The inspiration for this is that I have a lot of tags and being that they are open on a ring the bar codes rub off and some are chipped. For this I knit it flat in a version of double knitting that allows you to knit an open tube in the round and flat at the same time. 2 rows = 1 round

Materials needed:

size 2 needles - you will need at least 3 needles. For mine I used double point needles (but I treated them like straights)

Small amount of sock yarn

 In short this is a stockinette tube with a small rib on the open end. You can work it on DPN's or with magic loop. This is just a fun way to try a different double knitting technique.

Instructions:
Cast on 20 stitches (in even amounts if you need more or less). I used the long tail cast on and snugged my stitches up together to keep the end from flaring out because these stitches will be shared between  2 sides.

body of cozy:
*slip all stitches purlwise with yarn in front

s1,  p1,  repeat to end of row, turn

repeat this row untill the tube is about 2 inches long. If you are skipping the ribbing, make this section a few rounds longer. 

Ribbing (optional) :

s1, p1, s1, k1,repeat to the end of row, turn

Repeat this row untill you have about 5 rounds of ribbing.

bind off:

this is where the other needle comes in handy. When you have finished your last row you still have all the stitches shared on one needle.

 Now take 2 needles and slip the stitches onto them diving the stitches between front and back to open the tube. Slip the 1st stitch onto the back needle, 2nd stitch onto the front... *remember, I'm left handed so I'm slipping my stitches onto the needles in my left hand.

 Repeat this untill the stitches are divided and your tube is open

Now bind off in pattern using a stretchy bind off. knitting the knits and purling the purls. p1, k1, slid both back and k2tog, *p1, slide both stitches back and p2tog, k1, slide both stitches back and k2tog*. repeat between * and * untill all stitches are bound off.

Tie in your ends.

putting this on your key ring

Leave your finished tube purl side outout

In the center about 3-4 rows down from your cast on edge, slid this onto your ring slopping through both sides at the same spot. Try not to split the stitches.

Now just turn it knit side out  

 

Knitting and crochet fonts

I haven't posted in a while as I've been extremely busy. But I do have some things in the works which will be quite detailed blog posts.

I thought I would share with you 2 fonts that you can purchase. They are really high quality and very inexpensive to purchase. For anyone out there who wants to make (be it for your self or to publish) charts I highly recommend them. They also include symbols used for washing and ironing, both are a very comprehensive set of fonts. the washing and ironing fonts are only part of the knitting set though.

knitting font - StitchinKnit
crochet font - StitchinCrochet

Classic 10 point hot pad

Classic 10 Point Hot Pad

You can download the PDF pattern for free

This is a classic pattern that has been around for quite a while. I received one and was asked to reverse engineer it. I have created this pattern from that and I have made changes to the design to suit my liking. The pattern is available for free and this blog post is dedicated to explain some of the steps used to make this hot pad.

Also, remember that I am left handed and I crochet from left to right. The downloadable pattern is not hand bias so there should be no confusion for anyone desiring to follow the written pattern. But if you are right handed, these tutorial images will look backwards to you, just reverse what you see here to work the pattern right handed if using the photos.

This is not intended to be used as a pot holder but rater a decorative hot pad, or trivet if you will, to protect hard surfaces from hot dishes.

And a reminder for those looking at these images; you can click to enlarge any of the images for a better view, the photos are high quality and will show up clear.

I will take you step by step to help you use the techniques I used to create this hot pad.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

frsc = foundation row single crochet
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
bl = back loop
invisible join = I did a post explaining this technique
sc join = place slip knot on the hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both the loop and the slip knot.

The entire is worked in 1 continuous spiral working in the back loops (unless otherwise noted) which shows off the spiral design nicely. (this means there's no slip stitches to join and no chain up's to make).

Center:

With Color A Chain 2, 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook, (do not join) Work 2 sc in each sc around until you have 30 sc. on next round work 1sc in each sc (30 stitches) sc 3 (this just offsets your last stitch). Do not break yarn. (30 stitches on ring)

At this point i have finished my center circle and am about to start my frsc.


*Note: If you really don't want to work the frsc you can skip this tutorial and work as
Round 1: ch20, 1 sc in back loop of next 3 sc on center ring. repeat around to create foundation chain for all 10 points.

Round 2: (working into the chain stitches, NOT the chain space) 1sc in next 10 ch stitches, ch2, 1sc into next 10 ch stitches, sc into next 3 sc. Repeat around. continue one with round 2 of pattern as written


Insert your hook into the space you just worked your last sc on the center ring.

Yarn over and draw up a loop yarn over again

And draw through 1 loop on your hook.

Yarn over and draw through both loops you have on your hook

you have completed your 1st frsc! It should look like this.

For your 2nd frsc you will want to place your hook into the space/v in front and also 1 loop behind in the same stitch.

Yarn over and draw up a loop. which is what I have just done in this photo.

Yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook completing your 2nd frsc. Repeat this untill you have made 10 frsc

now you need to ch 2 and this will make the turn for the point. You do not need to take your hook out, I only did so it wasn't in the way for taking the photo. Now insert your hook into the base of the last frsc you made (the 10th stitch as shown in this photo) insert your hook thorough the base of the last frsc in same way you have all the other frsc.

Yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook, yo and draw through the 2 loops left on the hook.

Repeat the steps to make the frsc for 10 stitches. When done you will have a total of 20 frsc and a bend where you did the ch2 as shown in this photo. The black lines point to the 1st 10 stitches and the blue lines point to the 2nd 10 stitches.

When you have completed this step, sc into bl of the next 3 sc on the center ring.

Repeat this step all the way around completing all 10 pints. It will be floppy and look like a jumbled up mess, but don't worry it will come together in the end!

When you have reached the last petal and done your last 3 sc. On the last sc leave 2 loops on your hook and break your yarn leaving a good tail to weave in later. Now join in color B. Complete your last sc that you made with color A by hooking color B and pulling through both loops on the hook.

Round 2-4: With color B sc in each sc around, in ch2 points work (1sc in bl of 1^st chain, ch2, work 1sc in bl of 2^nd chain). Continue in this pattern until you have completed 3 rounds of color B. break yarn and join in color A on last stitch.

Round 5: Work 1 round same as above in color A. Crochet around until you are 1 stitch away from where you started. Break yarn and pull through your last stitch. Skip next stitch and work invisible join into 1^st stitch of color A on this round. Weave in ends.

Now your hot pad is nearly complete! Don't worry if it looks a mess. This is what mine looked like after completing round 5.

Border
Take the points and twist them in the same direction (it doesn't matter which direction you twist them so long as they are all twisted the same way) as you work so that the right side of the center is facing you but the wrong side of the points is also facing you.

Round 1: With wrong side of point facing you, start at the chain 2 corner space and count back 8 sc.

With color C, start at the ch 2 space and count back 8 sc, working in both loops join yarn directly with a sc into this stitch. Working through both loops work 1 sc in next 7sc. Sc, ch2sc in corner ch2 space, 1sc in next 8sc. [Twist next point in the same direction and count back 8 single crochet from ch2 space. 1sc in next 8sc, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 space, 1 sc in next 8sc.] Repeat around until all points are outlined.

Round 2: Working in the back loops of all stitches (including ch stitches); sc in 1st sc of round, 1sc in next 8sc, sc in ch st, ch2, sc in next ch st, 1sc in next 8sc, sc2tog, [1sc in next 8sc, sc in ch st, ch2, sc in next ch st, 1sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog]. Repeat around working your last sc2tog into your 1st st, break yarn leaving a long tail, pull the tail thorugh your last stitch. Skip next stitch and owrk invisible join inot the next sc. Weave tail down to 1st where you made your 1st sc and use it to secure/sew the points together where you joined in color C on round one and the last stitch on the last point of round 1.

I do not know why this image loaded sideways, but this is is a close up of how I finished the edging and weaved in the tail.

Now there is just one more thing you need to do. When it's finished it will look a bit wonky. This is my hot pad just after I finished.

Now just work your way around it straightening out the points and folds and you are done!