Flipping any YouTube video

Something I just learned. If you go to the URL of a YouTube video from the website (not the app) and replace YouTube or m.youtube with mirrorthevideo it will flip any video so you can view it mirrored. Great for turning any right, or standard,  knitting or crochet video into a mirror or lefty video

How to keep magic and traveling loop from creating ladders at the join

 Trick I use for magic and traveling loop to keep cables tight at the join. 

- Slip small ring all the way to the stitches before making the loop..

- Loop your cable and insert working needle through the same ring. 

- Continue knitting.

I always do my hats on traveling loop. I hate DPN's!

This will put a ring around the cable at the join preventing them from spreading to far apart and stressing the join, which can cause ladders.

Remember I'm a mirror knitter so this may seem backwards. I knit my new stitches onto my left needle.

G's sock blanket

Update progress pic 2/27/22

I will add to this as I make it

Why am I posting a sock blanket when there are loads of sock blankets out there? I did a few tricks with this one. I'm working the co and 1st row in black which will frame each square. I'm doing a sk2p every other row and I'm slipping the last stitch for a easy pickup edge.this is also made so that all the edges are pointy and the squares are turned so points are up.

The marker is for the center decrease. It shifts on the wrong side and Mark's the decrease on the right side.

To start my blanket I made 3 square groupings so that my points at the bottom of the blanket are 2 squares deep (the top will match). My blanket is 6 points/groups wide. I made my points and then joined them once I had enough. If you dont want the deep points, just make single 1st squares  and join them as described later.

PLEASE NOTE!

I am a mirror knitter. This means I knit left to right. If you are not a mirror knitter please reverse left and right! Ex. When I say join on the left, or left edge of the blanket, you will be working on your right. Photos in this pattern will appear reversed if you knit right to left.

Using fingerling/sock weight yarn and size 3 needles (I will be switching between knitting and crochet, but that will be later)

Tools:

Size 3 (3.25mm) needles

Size C (3.12mm) crochet hook

1 stitch marker

Yarn needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations 

co - cast on / k - knit / pm - place marker / sm - slip marker / sk2p - slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease) / s1wyif - slip 1 with yarn in front

sc - single crochet / ss - slip stitch / ch - chain

Always join with right side facing. Slip marker on wrong side rows, decrease on right side rows.

Casting on

At the start of a row and to make the 1st squares I use LTCO. 

To co 1 I use backwards loop, knitted co works to. 

To co at the end of a row I use knitted co. You can use backwards loop here as well.

1st square:

With border color: Co 24, pm, co 25 (the stitch with the marker on it will be your center stitch), Turn. - 49 stitches

*Every square will be worked exactly the same as written below after the setup row. Only the setup row varies depending on where you are placing it. The squares will give the setup row, then say finish square. 

Row 1: K to marker, remove marker, k1, pm. K to end, turn. Break yarn. - 49 stitches

Join in color B:

Row 2: K to marker, sm, sk2p, k to last stitch, s1 wyif, turn - 47 stitches 

Row 3: k to marker, remove marker, k1, replace marker, k to last stitch, s1 wyif, turn - 47 stitches

Repeat rows 2 and 3 till 3 stitches remain. Sk2p, k1 break yarn, pull end through and weave in ends

2nd square, Joining to square 1 on the left 

With border color: 

Co24, PM, co1, pickup 24 stitches along the edge, turn

-Finish square 

After casting on, pickup stitches. There are 24 slipped edge stitches on the square. Start with black.

This is after the co and pickup 

I leave the co tail loose so if there are any gaps or stretched stitches where it transitions from co to pickup I can use the tail to close it and straighten it up as I weave in ends. The strand on the left is my tail from breaking yarn. I've ran it under a few stitches on the needle. This shifts the tail to a place where it wont have to be weaved in where the other 2 ends are reducing bulk in that area.

Here is the square after a few rows.

3rd square, joining to square 1 on the right:

With border color and starting at the point, pickup 24 stitches from the other side of square 1, PM, co25, turn

-Finish square 

4 - Joining square (also body square)

With border color, pickup 24 stitches, pm, co1, pickup 24 stitches from next square

-Finish square 

All the squares in the middle will be made this way. But instead of m1, you pickup one stitch from the point of the square below as described in the next square. This can be easily done with the hook.

5 - Left inner edge including edging

*if you dont want to crochet, just pickup the 24/1/24 stitches. But doing this will leave 1 edge of the side squares without a border.

Join edging color to border edge, ch1, sc in same space, sc in next 22 edge stitches, 2 sc in last stitch,  ch1, insert hook into 1st slipped edge stitch on other side of point, draw up a loop, pull loop through loop on hook and place the loop on the needle, pickup the next 23 stitches (24 stitches on needle), pm,  pickup 1 stitch through the point in the middle square, pickup 24 stitches up along the edge of the next square

-Finish square 

 

6 - Right inner edge square with edging 

With border color pickup 24, pm, pickup 1 from point, pickup 24 from next square.

Leave the 49 stitches on the needle. With the hook insert it into the 1st slipped stitch on the other side of the point (outside edge), draw up a loop, ch1, sc in same space, sc in next 23 slipped stitches along the squares edge, ch1 turn. 

Return row: Working in front loop only ss in each stitch to end, 1 sc into point, ch1, hook last knit stitch and pull it through the loop on the hook, place loop back on needle 

- Finish square

Crochet down edge and slip back

Hook 1st stitch and pull it through the loop on hook and put it back on the needle and keep knitting

7 - outer left edge 

co 24, pm, pickup 1 from point, pickup 24 stitches from side of square, turn

- Finish square 

8 - outer right edge

Pickup 24 stitches along edge, PM, pickup 1 stitch from point, co 24 stitches, turn

- Finish square 

End the blanket with the last row being the wide outer edge row

Finishing edging

With crochet hook, join border color to 1st border slipped stitch of last row of squares, ch1, sc in same space, 1sc in next 22 slipped stitches, 2sc in last space, [ch1, 2sc in 1st slipped stitch on other side of the point, sc in next 22 slipped stitches, insert hook into border slipped stitch, draw up a loop, (skip point), insert hook into 2st slipped border stitch of next square, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook. Sc in next 23 slipped stitches, 2 sc in last stitch.] Repeat to top of point on last square. Ch1, 2sc in next slipped stitch, sc in next 23 slipped stitches, break yarn and weave in ends.

This is a mockup of how I will finish it. Clearly it will not be done for a very long time, so instead of waiting till I actually finish, this is how it will be done.

Here is a picture with the squares numbered to show where they fit

You can add large squares by working the left then righ and leaving a 2 square space then picking up 2 squares worth of stitches (pickup the 48 stitches on either side).

Drunken Masonery

5/1/19
I updated the PDF for this to correct issues regarding stitch count that were brought to my attention. I had added the YO's on the side B rows to make the M1 easier on the next row, but I accidentally put this in the space where a stitch used to be. I added columns of "no stitch" shading to correct the row counts. both links will download the new PDF. Please be patient, I work alone :)

I finally got this scarf pattern all worked out. I simplified it quite a bit form the "reversible stitch pattern" I had originally written years ago.

This Pattern works best with a nice medium weight yarn. White, black, dark or variegated yarns will cause the stitch pattern to get lost. I have made this with both Caron Simply Soft and Bernat worsted. It works well in any weight, just use the size needle recommended for your yarn. This stitch creates a reversible fabric that looks different on either side. The columns of twisted stitches only show on one side so that one side looks like a winding pathway and the other side looks like crooked bricks.

This is available on Ravelry!

 

Also available off Ravelry: Drunken Masonery

Beaded star edging

Celestarium edging

I recently finished the Celestarium shawl. I modified a popular edging that is used and have charted it. There are 2 charts on the PDF so that standard or mirror knitters can follow it. Due to the option of knitting this standard or mirror I did not label the / or \. use SSK or K2TOG as needed to get a matching lean per chart symbol.

 The edging is a 14 row repeat, but contains 13 beads per row! Make sure you have enough beads to compete this. I used 2 sizes of beads for my shawl and edging. For the shawl I used a triangular bead for the large stars and smaller 6/0 beads for the rest. for the edging I used mostly all 6/0 but used 1 larger one at the points.

My finished shawl is very bead heavy!

How many beads will you need?
total edge stitches divided by 7 (edge stitches needed per repeat). Take that and multiply by 13 (beads per repeat)
Stitches / 7 x 13 = beads needed

this is the PDF file for the star edging

And my ravelry project page for my shawl. I have detailed notes on how i completed it

May the stars be your guide

How to use tiger tail wire (Beadalon) to bead knitting

This is my preferred method for placing beads onto knitting. This is the same method as what people use dental floss, but the wire (found in the beading/jewelry making section) is stiffer and easier to handle. And once you have a kink in it you can load up the wire and set it aside and the beads don't easily fall off. Also you don't have to worry about your hook splitting your yarn as you try to work the beads onto the stitches.

This is the wire, it is a nylon coated steel wire used for jewelry making. I use a larger gauge of this type of wire for my stitch markers. The fine gauge works well and allows you to use more of your beads. Seed beads don't always have a consistant sized hole in the center which makes some useless because you cannot get a hook into it. With the wire, you can use the beads which may have a smaller hole.

 I cut segments about 5-6" and put 1 bead on and tie the wire around it into a knot towards an end of the wire. This creates a stopper so you won't loose your beads.

I'll use my current shawl, Celestarium, for this demo.

 load the wire up Leaving a long enough tail to fold over. Fold the end to put a kink in it (at least 1 inch from the end). 

 

Hook the end into your stitch

Holding both strands of the wire, pull the stitch off the needle.

 

 Slide a bead down and make sure to feed the tail of the wire through the bead as you transfer it onto the stitch. Place the stitch back on the needle and remove the wire and continue working.

For this particular shawl I strung the bead onto the stitch before I knit it. this creates a tight stitch and the beads sink back into the fabric to sit nice and snug. so I string the bead onto the stitch, place the stitch onto the needle and than knit it.

You can also place the bead onto the stitch you just knit. this will create a little more slack in that particular stitch because there is enough yarn to pass through the bead and go around the needle. I do this if I want to make sure the beads will stay on top nicely. Ilike if I'm following a line of decrease. It allows the bead a little bit of slack to be more raised on the surface.

Here is a bead in my current shawl. it's nice and tight

These are the beads on the Sagittaria shawl I did. I beaded the stitch after knitting it (knit the stitch, placed the bead and put back on the needle). They sit nicely on top of the lines of decrease. These particular beads were much smaller than the ones I normally use.

One row lace scarf

The base of this is co in multiples of:

Knit flat - 6+1

In the round - 6

Use a larger needle than called for. This yarn is some hand spun worsted and I'm using a size 9 needle.

For one I co 6+5 to create a 3 stitch garter edge.

Every row = k1, yo, k1, s1 k2tog psso, k1 yo. Repeat to end k1

This creates a richly textured fabric that is deeply rippled. Works great with self striping yarn. I will be turning minecinto s moebius cowl by grafting th ends

Drop stitch moebius cowl

Drop stitch moebius cowl
"The 80's will never die!"

This pattern is available on Ravelry!

Downloadable version

Fingerling weight/sock yarn. I used:

Wild Hare Fiber Studio Hand Dyed Pinnacle Sock Yarn

colorway: Neon Lights

My cowl only took about 2/3 the hank. so this does not use much yarn at all! This particular yarn is UV reactive and will glow under black light

needle: Size 5 interchangable and a smaller size for the opposite end (I used a size 2 on the other end of mine) This will allow you to easily get all the wraps off the cord after they have worked their way around the cable. If you cannot use 2 different sized needles, this will be difficult to make! the stitches choke up on the cable as they work their way around the needle and are difficult to get back off to work them.


Co 155 (multiples of 10+5. Total stitch count will be multiples of 20+10) stitches using cats moebius co. To make the stitch pattern line up properly on both sides of the co edge you need to co in multiples of 10 + 5 giving you a total stitch count of multiples of 20 + 10.

For more information about the moebius cast on and other things about the moebius (including how to deal with wrong stitch counts), see my post: Demystifying the moebius!

Setup round: Place marker at the start of the round and purl one complete round. The 1st half will be really difficult to work as you don't have stitches, but just loops and the loops will be tight on the cabel. To help with this I have interchangeable needles and put the smallest tip I have (a size 2 in my set) on the end I knit my stitches off from. The 2nd half will be easier to knit. This also helps when knitting into the row with all the yo's as they tend to choke up on the cable as its being worked.
Round 1: (k6, yo, k1, yo 2, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, yo) repeat to end, m1

Round 2: purl all stitches. On multiple yo's, purl the 1st wrap while dropping the rest as you work

Round 3: knit

Round 4: purl

Round 5: k1, (yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k6) repeat to end

Rounds 6, 7, and 8 are the same as 2, 3, and 4

*Only work the M1 on round 1. On all other repeats, just work this as a single knit stitch at the end of the row!

Repeat rounds 1 - 8 until the cowl is the desired width. Bind off loosely.

I did not block mine as I like the texture and ripply look of the fabric.

Moebius bubble cowl/scarf

Moebius Bubble Cowl

 

This pattern is available on Ravlery!

PDF Chart download

Yarn: premier yarns "wool-free lace"
Needles: size 2

This yarn, though labeled "lace" is more like a sock (fingerling) yarn. This pattern is easily modified for any yarn. The thicker the yarn you use, I recommend doing your sections with less stitches. Use the needle size recommended for your yarn. The finished cowl is quite warm and the stitch pattern allows plenty of stretch if you desire to use it as a hood.

I also like to use stitch markers at each knit/purl transition point.

Here is a sample of this same stitch in a thicker, hand spun yarn worked on size 6 needles and it is a 6x6 rib. this yarn is pretty much worsted.




If you intend to make this a cowl, you can either cast on provisionally and graft or do a 3 needle bind off, or cast on regularly and seam. Of course grafting will result in a seamless cowl and have a post here that deals with working the Kitchener Stitch (grafting) in pattern. It's a useful skill to have and not nearly as complicated as it may seem once you understand it.
 

I have this pattern charted. it's a simple pattern to adapt and also makes a great scarf if you don't want to make a moebius. As written, it's basically a 10 stitch by 10 row checker of tight and dropped stitches with twisted stitches to help keep it all tidy on the edges of the transition points. A 10x10 rib that creates a reversible bubble effect.

A close up of the stitch pattern at the point where I grafted the ends together.

You can read more about creating moebius knits here: Demystifying the moebius!

I did not block this. If you block it, you will loose the texture of the bubbles.