Book: A treasury of knitting patterns

Book: A Treasury of Knitting Patterns by: Barbara G. Walker

A truly indispensable book for any knitter! And a fixture on many a knitters book shelf already. It does not give much in the way of instructions and ho-to's but this book contains over 500 stitch patterns to get your creative juices flowing! All patterns are in written form

The section in the book on color work is almost entirely about slip stitch color work which I think is really nice for blankets because you don't have yarn trailing across the back of your work.

All the photos in the book are in black and white. Each stitch pattern has it's own photo and many of them show variations of each stitch pattern as well.

I enjoy simply sitting down and browsing though this book over and over. I can't wait till I get the rest of her collection for my knitting library.

If you are looking for a bare bones dictionary without all the how-to's and pages of diagrams this is it!

This was originally published in 1968.

This book is available at Amazon

Book: Reversible Kniting

Book: Reversible Knitting - 50 Brand-new, Groundbreaking stitch patterns.


I purchased this book while browsing the shelf at our local book store and couldn't pass it up! This is an amazing book. the stitch patterns are not simply reversible but often provide completely different looks on both sides of the fabric. I have made the one run socks (I call them my strapy socks) and worked one of the DK patterns.

The book is broken up into 3 main sections.

Reversible stitch patterns:

Faux crochet - (9 stitches) these are actually quite impressive in their simulation of crochet and at some points it basically is crochet with a knitting needle.

Rows within rows - (6 stitches) these require you to knit off into completely different directions and return to the body of the project.

Openwork - (7 stitches) stitches with open spaces or a rather lacy feel to them

Divide & Combine - (6 stitches) these are patterns that require you to divide your stitches and knit separately before rejoining into the main body.

Picked up - (6 stitches) these require you to either pick up stitches for joining or to knit off the fabric that has already been knitted.

Double knit - (6 stitch patterns) These are not your standard DK designs. These patterns offer completely different designs on opposite sides of the fabric like stripes on one side and dots on the other for one example. Very easy to follow charts

Reversible designs:

20 different designs

folded scarf
branching ribs (upper left back cover)
two-tone vest
investments (a vest)
double knit vest
geometric dress (a slip stitch pattern)
folded mini dress (this has a folded ripple like design on the skirt portion)
Double wrap stockings (a thigh high stocking with a net and strip design)
Winding path (a sweater that can be worn upside down and inside out)
faux warp (clever sweater with reversible cables)
Syncopation (a brioche headband)
laced wrap
incognita (a brimmed hat pattern with attached scarf)
reverse me ( a cardigan that can be worn upside down or inside out with reversible cables) pictured on the front cover
lice jacket (a traditional style DK jacket with a reverse image on either side)
Brioche bag
Flip your lid - pictured on back cover
tie socks (these tie around your legs)
one run socks - picture on back cover
linking hip sash (a decorative tie belt)

Special techniques:

This section has detailed photos for the techniques used in this book. Covers various cast on's (including 2 color), Kitchener plus (how to Kitchener ribbing and seed stitch) and other assorted techniques.

For the most part these use advanced knitting techniques and several require multiple sets of needles for the same project.

I would like to note though that if you are left handed and knit left handed this book may take a bit of brain power to flip around as it refers to left and right needles almost exclusively rather than using the term "working needle"

This book can be purchased on amazon

Is your square crochet slanting?

One of the most common problems for people when they start crocheting is loosing stitches on the edges. This is really easy to do (honestly no matter what your skill level is) because the turning chain kind of gets lost and does not look like a stitch when you return to that spot. Some patterns are particularry hard to identify where the turning stitch is.

I made this swatch to help someone else on this issue. The swatch is made from SC clusters which can be found in this sweater pattern Twila. for this one you chain 1 at the end and 2 at the start of the next row (so chain 3) this chain get's lost though once you start to work into the stitches.

To make sure you won't be loosing stitches, no matter what the pattern, you will need 2 markers. I often prefer paperclips (or piece of contrasting waste yarn works fine as well). Place your marker in your top chain you just made before you start to work your row. When you get to the end of the row you will place your hook into the stitch which you placed your marker in the beginning of the previous row and than remove the marker, chain up and place the marker back into the last chain of your turning chain.

Repeat these steps and you will be sure to not loose stitches on your edges due to not seeing the turning chain.

This works for any stitch pattern, even if you are doing plain single crochet of double crochet.

crochet shawl - pattern wip

Just thought I would post this. I'm working on a shawl pattern that will be quite simple. I think Iw will have the corners wrap around rather than be a traditional triangle. More V shaped.

I'm crocheting it with an I hook and using Ultra Alpaca yarn

I make no promises but if all goes well I should be able to write this one up after a while.

Knitting vs. Crochet

This is not your crochet bashing knitting or knitting bashing crochet but my views on both crafts as compared side to side.

Knitting vs. crochet

I love them both. I have been crocheting for nearly 13 years now and knitting a few as well. I am self taught for each. I conciser my self equally good at both crafts. I also conciser my self to be quite good and write patterns for both crafts.

crochet plays on the beauty of the individual stitch to were knitting plays on the flow of the fabric over all as the columns of stitch flow in, out and around each other to create patterns.

Crochet is sturdier than knitting as in you are not going to snag a run in crochet. This makes knitting a more delicate fabric (I’m not speaking of the design just the care). Knitting needs to be handled more gently than crochet at times.

Crochet is easier to shape on the fly. you can see what your fabric is doing instantly. Knitting takes a few rows to “see” what is going on.

Crochet is easier to design IMO because you can see what is going on. Knitting deals w/more math with your increases, decreases and keeping your stitch count the same. You gotta figure if you are designing in knitting and you add a YO you need to figure out where you are going to take that stitch out.

both crafts have worthy application for similar items. you can make some really nice crochet sweaters and of course knit as well. Some say knitting is for clothing but really it’s all a matter of personal preference.

both can be felted and anything you make with one can be made in the other

as we all know, crochet is faster in general but uses more yarn so using the same yarn and needle/hook size your crochet fabric will be heavier than your knit. Crochet is not faster when you get down to the tiny needles and some lace projects like filet but in general it is faster. Similar projects to filet that are knit use YO's instead of individual chain stitches and that can take longer.

I don’t much prefer one over the other I enjoy them equally for everything I make.

Though I do havea couple exceptions… I do prefer crochet lace for when I do 3D and stiffened items like my angle and snowflake tree toppers. I also prefer crochet for my kitchen wares and hair accessories.

Oh, about the colorway though, crochet color work creates a reversible fabric as the running strands are concealed under the stitches, to where standard knitting color work (aka. fair isle) does not. All the floats are on the back as knitting has a distinct front and back. Double knitting, how ever, does create a reversible fabric but generally a mirrored image or different image on opposing sides. Crochet color work creates the same image on both sides.

And that is my assessment of knitting vs. crochet

Pantie liner

OK, so here's something a bit different. I know this isn't for everyone but If I am seeking something like this I can't be that unique that nobody else would also like it.

I'm all about natural stuff and I have been using a menstrual cup for over 5 years now. the thing is I still use pantie liners and have been toying for a while about a way to make my own. I did have some flannel ones but they would scrunch up in uncomfortable ways. I recently tried one in seed stitch and it was just to thin and flimsy.

this is the design I settled on. it's a 1x1 rib so thicker and more stable. I like mine a bit wide. This is rather the formula I used to create one so adjust as you desire. for a general guideline I took one of my liners of my fave brand and used that as a visual adjusting size as I saw fit.

This is not designed to replace a pad as it's not thick enough for such use. But it is a nice substitute for a every day pantie liner.


needle: us 5
yarn: Hobby Lobby's "I Love This Cotton!" This is a VERY soft 100% cotton and feels nice against the skin. I t is a sport type weight.

I like to slip one stitch on my edges, It helps to keep things looking neat.

I suggest making 1 and using it and washing it to see where you may want to customize this more to your liking. Also I suggest making it just a tad wider than what you think is good. they do compress a bit when you wear them.

for the increases just either make one knit or make one purl. I prefer to do this at the end of the row but I like to set it up with a YO at the beginning of the row which makes it easier to twist the stitch when you do your m1. Being a 1x1 rib if you want to set up with a YO you will have to do either a yo front or yo bak depending on weather you have a knit stitch or a purl stitch following the yo.

For mine I cast on 15 stitches.

(always knit the 1st stitch).
row 1: k1, p1 to last stitch, slip last stitch with yarn in front
row 2: k1, yo, work the k1, p1 rib to last stitch and slip last stitch wyif
row 3: k1, yo, work rib to yo, use the yo to either make one knit or make one purl by twisting the yo as you stitch into it, slip last stitch wyif.

repeat row 3 till it is of the desired width. (I increased till I had 21 stitches.)

work a few rows in the k1, p1 rib till top is desired length and you feel it's time to start to reduce. (I worked 7 rows before reducing)

To reduce: k1, work ribbing to last 3 stitches. either k2tog or p2 tog on next 2 stitches, slip last stitch wyif

Repeat reducing row until narrow enough to fit. (I reduced to 10 stitches)

Work k1, p1 rib till the center is of desired length (I worked this for about 10 rows)

Work increasing row 3 for a few rows till bottom is of desired width (I increased to 13 stitches)

work 1x1 rib for a couple rows (I worked for 3 rows).

Reduce again following same formula in row 3 till you have about 6 stitches. bind off.

Of course customize this shape for best fit and comfort.

In short: cast on about 15 stitches, increase till top is desired width, knit till top is desired length, reduce till narrow enough to fit, knit till desired length. increase a little for the bottom and decrease and bind off.

Gail in the Round

It's not to often I make more than 1 of a pattern, let alone 3. But I have just finished my 3rd Gail pattern. But this one is not a shwl but a blanket/throw instead. I knit it in the round so essentally it's the pattern repeated 2x. To start it I cast on 8 stitches. Being that it was going to be a blanket I wanted the corners to be more stable than what the double YO provides so 4 of the cast on stitches were inserted to be between the YO's on what would be the center points of the shawl, the other 4 stitches cast on were to start the pattern. I worked the pattern chart every other row and did plain knit every other row. When it came to doing the edging I did plain stockinette and increased on either side of teh final leaf points by doing a after though YO (aka knitting into the running strand w/o twisting it) and worked those spaces as plain stockinette. the afterthought YO creates an open space but not as large of one as a regular YO woul give.

I did keep to the pattern for the corners and made those into points so that the blanket would be square on the corners. I finished up by doing 2 garter ridges and binding off.

If you are thinking you may want to knit a light weight throw conciser a shawl pattern in the round but knit in worsted yarn. This will be going to my Mom in Arizona so I didn't want a heavy blanket but still wanted to knit her something.

These photos are really poor quality, but you can get the idea of what I did. I used Bernat value yarn for this and about 4 skeins I believe.

Being that this is worked in worsted weight yarn it only took 3 pattern repeats to complete before adding the final repeat which contained the edging.

Peaches & Creme HUGE SALE!!!!

P&C is having a HUGE sale right now. 50%-70% off balls and full cones of yarn.

Just had to pass this info on incise anyone is interested. Peaches & Creme is the yarn I love to use for my hair accessories and all my kitchenware.

The sale is going for a total of 10 days and ends 6-25-11

Peaches & Creme website

Lacy shells headband

Yarn: Hobby Lobby's "I Love This Cotton!" (Band info: medium, 4 ply, 100% cotton)
Hook size: G (4mm, UK 8) & H (5mm, UK 6)

Stitches used (US):
ss - slip stitch
ch - chain
sc - single crochet
dc - double crochet

Special stitches:
Beginning shell (beg shell) : ch3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc
shell: 3dc, ch2, 3dc
double shell (dbl shell) : ch3, 2dc, ch2, 3dc, ch2 3dc

This head band works up really fast and uses less than one skein of yarn. It is worked in 2 parts and seamed together.

Tie: With H hook chain 26. Switch to G hook and SC in 2nd chain from hook and each chain space to beginning chain, ch3, ss in same st as last sc made, ch1 turn

Row1: ss in ch3 sp, beg shell in same sp, ch1, turn

row 2: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, beg shell in same sp, ch1, turn

row 3: repeat row 2

row 4: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, dbl shell in same sp, ch1 turn

row 5: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, beg shell in same sp, shell in next ch2 sp, ch1, turn

row 6: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, beg shell in same sp, ch2, shell in next ch2 sp, ch1, turn

row 7: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, beg shell in same sp, ch2, dc in last dc of shell, ch2, dc in 1st dc of next shell, ch2, shell in next ch2 sp, ch1 turn

row 8: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, beg shell in same sp, ch2, dc in last dc of shell, (ch2, dc in next dc) 3 times, ch2, shell in next ch2 sp, ch1, turn

row 9: ss in next 2 dc and ch2 sp, beg shell in same sp, ch2,skip next ch2 sp, (dc in next dc, ch2) 4 times, shell in next ch2 sp, break yarn and fasten off and set aside.

Make 2nd piece the same except do not fasten off at the end or row 9

Joining: On 2nd half after row 9 - ch1, turn, ss in next 2 dc. Cut yarn leaving a long enough tail to be able to sew halves together and pull tail through last stitch.

Thread tail onto yarn needle and holding halves together whip stitch across stitch for stitch starting at ch 2 spaces of 1st shell and ending at the last ch2 space of last shell. weave in ends and finish off. When whip stitching the chain spaces go into the stitches rather than around the chains.

This pattern is available as a PDF file

Zebra gets a hoodie!

Robert has been asking me to make his zebra a new sweater. I finally got around to it. He raided my stash looking for my colorful yarn and found this self striping sock yarn.

I crochet it with my #1 steel hook and the whole thing is done entirely in alternating rows of DC and SC. The back is worked back and forth all the way up to the top of the head shaped to fit behind the ears. the front of the hoodie is worked back and forth leaving holes for the ears to poke through. the front of the sweater is crochet directly onto the back leaving about 4 rows unworked which became arm holes. the arms were done last.

How I make my grannie squares

This is the method I have come up with to create a granny square that I find most appealing as far as the seam that shows up and other things.

ch4, join with a slip stitch to 1st chain.

round 1: Insert hook into ring yo and and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, chain 2, 2dc in ring, ch2, (3dc, ch2) in ring 3 times. join with slip stitch to top of 1st chain 2.

round 2: insert hook into last ch2 space made, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, ch2. (3dc, ch2, 3dc) in next corner ch 2 space repeat * to * 3 times total. In last ch2 corner space work: 3dc, ch2, 2dc join with slip stitch to top of 1st chain 2 or round (this makes your chain up the last DC in the round)

round 3: insert hook into space where you just joined, yo, draw up a loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, ch2, 2dc in same space. 3dc, ch2, 3dc in next ch2 corner space and each corner space there after. 3dc in spaces between 3dc clusters on previous row. after working last corner space slip stitch to top chain from beginning of round.

round 4: insert hook into space just created, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, ch2. Work groups of 3dc between each space on previous row. ON corners work 3dc, ch2, 3dc in each ch2 corner space. In last space work 2dc and slip stitch to the top of your ch2 from start of round.

See, every other round you are chaining up and that counts as the 1st dc of your 3dc group. than on the other rounds your chain up counts as your last DC of last DC 3 group of round. This I feel hides the “seam” best. your seam also stays centered along one side. I devised this after many yars of trial and error and not liking the way my grannies looked.

I only use chain spaces on the corners.

I think that inserting the hook and creating a stitch right on the 1st one also helps hide the appearance of the traditional ch 3 at the start of the rounds.

There are other ways to beef up your starting chain if interested in that as well.

I worked a grannie and wrote down each step as I went to make this post ☺

Here is the grannie I made for this post. the seam runs up towards the top.

The Big Book of Crochet Sweaters

This is a book I have had in my collection for a while now. I have not made any but it is a very nice book. It contains 10 sweater designs. They are sized as small, medium and large but the stitch patterns are quite repetative so making them larger than that shouldn't be much of a problem. The book contains a clear stitch guide, inches to mm conversion chart and US to metric hook conversion chart. Also clear color photos for each pattern included in the book.

The book does not rate the patterns by difficulty but some are pretty basic and others contain more detailed stitch patterns or color changes.

I have included images of all the sweaters in this book and you can click on any of these pages for a larger blown up view to better see the sweaters.

I have not made any of them as of yet because though sweaters are pretty i just have not been inclined to make one my self.

You can find the book on Amazon

Yarn ring

This is something I came up with when I changed the way I held my yarn when I learned to knit. Before I learned to knit I held my yarn between my 1st 2 fingers (kind of like a cigarette). When I learned to knit I learned continental and changed my yarn hold so that it wraps around my pinkie and up and over the back of my hand and index finger and this is a much better hold for me.

For the longest time I had problems holding my yarn in the same spot on my finger. To solve this I created yarn rings. I would get scraps of yarn and tie them into loops around the yarn I was working with. I would make the loop large enough to stay between my 1st and 2nd knuckle.

I then put the ring on my finger and my yarn still runs across the back of my hand and over my index finger but the yarn ring keeps it from slipping off. This is also hand when working with more than one color as you can make a separate yarn ring for each strand it it will keep them from crossing.

Here are a couple photos of the yarn ring in use. They don't need to be tight, it's just a guide. I don't need it like I used to because i have become accustomed to holding my yarn secure but it's a handy tip to pass on for anyone who is having problems keeping their yarn in the same spot on their finger.

Queen Anne's Lace - FINISHED!

Finally finished my QAL! I cast on last June so it's been a long time coming. It's really big but I like it and will be keeping this one for my self. IT was an easy pattern (IMO) as it's done in the round so everything is knit and it's composed of 32 sections so the rows you work are extremely short even twards the end, you just repeat them over and over all the way around.

If anyone does decide to give this one a go. Early on in the pattern there are rows that are all knit. He leaves these rows unmarked and just skips them but it's not in regular intervals so can trip you up if you are not paying attention to what row # you are on. It is both charted and written. I followed the written pattern

Here are the pattern page links.

Ravelry pattern page

Pattern off rav

I didn't get a good before blocking phto as I was so excited to see it done. Here is one mid way through the project though. This is a really good depiction of the color. This is the same yarn I used for my wrist warmers and my last Gail.

Crochet kerchief

Crochet kerchief

i have this posted on this blog but it was a while back and the pattern was not written as well.

These work up fast and are easy to make. The open stitches hold your hair back without making your head hot. I wear these nearly every day. The ties are long so if you want you can pull your hair into a pony tail and tie it again around to hold the rest of the hair out of the way.

Hook size: H & I
Yarn: Peaches'n cream
(one ball is not quite enough for 2 full kerchiefs)
stitches:
chain (ch)
double crochet (DC)
single crochet (sc)
slip stitch (SS)

When starting these kerchiefs be sure when SC into the chain row to work into the back ridge leaving the braided edge open and stitch free. This not only makes a neater edge but also makes it easier to work into both sides of your chain.


You can start this 2 ways.

Foundation row: Using a foundation row single crochet and do a foundation row of 73 stitches using the H hoook. switch to the I hook and chain 20, switch back to the H hook and ch1 and SC in each chain. join to the 1st stitch.

Chain start:
Using the I hook chain 73. switch to the H hook and ch1, sc in each ch to the end. Switch back to the I hook, chain 20. switch to the H hook, ch1, sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each open chain. Slip stitch to the 1st chain you made.

If you are making your band a different color than the triangle you can either just do a foundation row of 93 with the H hook and fasten off(do not use the I hook for this method. Or chain 93 stitches with the I hook and SC in each chain with the H and fasten off.

For the rest of the kerchief you will only be using the H hook.

Row 1: ch3, skip next stitch, DC in next stitch (ch1, skip next stitch, DC in next stitch) repeat until you have 26DC and 25 ch1 spaces (do not include the 1st ch3.

Row 2: Turn, ss into 1st chain 1 space, chain 3, DC in next ch1 space (ch1, dc in next ch1 space) repeat to the 2nd to last ch1 space. Skip next ch1 space and DC into last DC.

Repeat row 2 and reduce until kerchief has reached it's final point and you cannot work row 2 anymore. break yarn and weave in ends.

In this 2 color one i worked the band and did the ch3 joined in color B and alternated between colors for each DC made. I changed colors after the DC was completed. so I with color A, DC. than drop color A and with color B I ch 1, DC 1. drop color B. with color A chain 1. continue this to the end. and at the end of the row hold both colors together and chain 3. and than work alternating colors back.

This pattern is available as a PDF file

Crochet dishmat

Crochet dish mat

This is part of my kitchen crochets. These dish mats are perfect for setting on the counter to set your dishes on for air drying. Place them on the counter alone or next to your drying rack. They also make great hot pads for casserole dishes.

This uses a small V stitch which allows air to circulate under dishes yet is stable enough to set glasses on.

Hook: H
yarn: Worsted kitchen cotton (I like Sugar & Creme or Peaches'n creme)

gauge: Gauge is not really important but I get 4" = 7 dc2tog groups and 6 rows

You can make these any size you like but I prefer mine to be about as wide or slightly wider than a hand towel. Make them as long as you need, I like to have mine be the same length as the depth of my counter top.

Chain in multiples of 3. For mine like to have about 78 chains long. you can eyeball this pattern to your personal preference.

Basically all this is is dc2tog (but in the ch 1 spaces) with 2 stitches in each ch1 space, ch1 between each dc2tog. repeated over and over. I break it down in the pattern.

Row 1: dc in 3rd chain from hook, *ch1 yo, insert hook into same ch stitch just worked, yo and draw up loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook, skip next ch, yo, insert hook through next ch stitch, yo draw up loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook, yo draw through last 3 loops on hook* repeat from * to * all the way to the end DC in same ch as the last stitch worked.

Row 2: Turn, ch2, dc in next ch1 sp, ch1 * yo, insert hook into same space just worked, yo and draw up loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, yo insert hook into next ch1 space, yo, draw up loop, yo, draw through 2 loops on hook, yo, draw through last 3 loops on hook.* repeat from * to * to the last ch1 space. yo, insert hook into same space just worked, yo, draw up loop, yo and pull through 2 loops on hook, yo, insert hook into ch2 space of turning chain, yo, draw up loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook, yo and draw through last 3 loops on hook.

Work row 2 until mat is long enough. Cut yarn and weave in ends.

for the trim I work them in a reverse SC.

I recommend attaching the yarn to the right corner of the end if you are left handed and the left hand corner of the end if you are right handed and ch1. work reverse sc (aka crab stitch) around the edge stitch for stitch along the top and bottom. when working along the sides work one stitch into each space and into each row. Work last reverse sc in same space where you joined the yarn. cut yarn and weave in ends.

If you do not want to work the reverse sc you can simply crochet around the edge and over the loop and join as normal.

Reverse SC/crab stitch is my favorite way to put edgings on my kitchenware's. Creates a decorative yet simple and sturdy edging.

To work a reverse SC you insert your hook into stitch behind the one you just worked into, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat around. Reverse sc has you working backwards to the direction you normally crochet so for lefty's you will be working right to left and for righties you will be working left to right.

Here are some great video tutorials for reverse single crochet.
Left hand
Right hand

Here is a close up of the one I just made. Sorry I don't have my camera so am using my scanner. Click on the photo for a close up detail of the stitches.

Crochet pot handle cover

Crochet pot handle cover

These pot handle covers are really quick to crochet, take very little yarn and are worked in a continuous round without joining. Gauge is not important but when made and laid to be flat the wine one measures 2 inches across and mine is 5 inches long from top to bottom edge.

Hook size: G
Yarn: Peaches & creme or Sugar n' Cream
stitches: chain, single crochet, reverse single crochet (aka crab stitch)

Start by chaining 2 stitches 4 SC in 2nd chain from hook, 2sc in 1st sc made, 2sc in next sc and repeat until you have 16 sc around. 1sc in next sc until holder is desired length.

final round (this can be at any point). sc in next sc, ch8 (sc in next sc) 8 times. cut yarn and weave in ends. This is the loop you will use to hang it up. you don't have to have a loop if you don't want one.

for the trim I work them in a reverse SC.

Attach yarn at some point opposite the loop and ch1. work reverse sc (aka crab stitch) around the edge stitch for stitch up to the loop do a reverse sc into the last stitch. Starting on the opposite side of the loop as where you did your last reverse sc work 14 regular SC around the loop covering it, chain 1 and continue your reverse sc stitch starting in the next sc on the other side of the loop and work around to where you joined at your start. cut yarn and weave in ends. I like to work my very last reverse sc into the same stitch I joined my yarn into. You have to cross over the loop this way to be able to transition from reverse SC to regular SC. you can see in the 1st image how it crosses.

If you do not want to work the reverse sc you can simply crochet around the edge and over the loop and join as normal.

Reverse SC/crab stitch is my favorite way to put edgings on my kitchenware's. Creates a decorative yet simple and sturdy edging.

To work a reverse SC you insert your hook into stitch behind the one you just worked into, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through 2 loops on hook, repeat around. Reverse sc has you working backwards to the direction you normally crochet so for lefty's you will be working right to left and for righties you will be working left to right.



Here are some great video tutorials for reverse single crochet.

Left hand
Right hand

now using PDF file format

I just went and got a host to load my word document pattern stuff to PDF files which are easy to save to your computer. I don't have but 2 at the moment but as I make stuff here and there that is somewhat worthy of a pattern page I'll link them as a PDF file in the post.

Also on the left between where the followers are listed and my flicker photo widget I have added a page link which will also list the links in just a alphabetical list for quick reference.

Simple and squishy rib scarf

I knit this on size 10 needles but you can use what ever size you desire for your yarn. I got this stitch pattern from someone on one of my knitting message boards and it has become my favorite "go-to" scarf pattern. Suitable for men or women!

Cast on in multiples of 6

row 1: k3, p3
row 2: k1, p1

repeat these 2 rows till the scarf is of desired length.

If you want a cleaner edge you can cast on a extra 2 stitches to your grand total and just slip them on each side.

Here are some close up photos of what this stitch pattern looks like. The Pink scarf was done in Bernat Camo yarn and the black and white one was done in Red Heart Super Saver Zebra color. The pink scarf is 36 stitches wide.

Light and lacy spring hat

I could not find my camera but I put the hat in my scanner and it came out rather well.

This is a nice and open, light and lacy pattern. I used Caron country in the colorway Ocean Spray. This hat is a beanie style but rather loose. Caron Country tends to be on the splitty side so if you would rather substitute a yarn with a tighter twist go ahead. I would probably stick to a medium weight.

I made this to fit me and I have somewhat of a larger head so I would describe this as a large size in how it fits around. It is easy to adjust the size simply by adding or taking away pattern repeats (12 stitches on the cast on row). If you like a roll brim hat, knit a longer portion of 2x2 rib.

Try your hat on as you are making it to get the right fit for you.

For me, one pattern repeat is about 3.5" and 4 rows is just under 1"

this is knit in the round.

Needles: Size US 6 (4mm)
Yarn: Naturally Caron Country (much less than 1 skein)

Using a stretchy cast on of your choice (I use the cable cast on), cast on in multiples of 12.

*For my hat I did 8 pattern repeats so I cast on 96 stitches though 7 repeats (84 stitches) would have been fine as well.

Join for knitting in the round making sure not to twist your cast on row.

Do a 2x2 rib for 1 inch.


Hat body

*K9, p3 for all even numbered rows

Row 1: k2 tog, k2, yo, k1, yo, k2, ssk, p3 repeat
Row 3: k2 tog, k1, yo, k3, yo, k1, ssk, p3 repeat

Repeat these rows until the body is of desired length ending on row 4. for my hat I did 7 repeats. My hat just comes down over the tops of my ears.

Crown
Row 1: ssk, k1, yo, s1, k2tog, psso, yo, k1, k2tog, p3 repeat
Row 2: k7, p3 repeat
Row 3: k1, ssk, k1, k2tog, k1, p3
Row 4: k5, p3
Row 5: ssk, k1, k2tog, p3
Row 6: k3, p3
Row 7: s1, k2tog, psso, p3
row 8: purl all stitches
row 9: p1, p2tog, p1
row 10: purl all stitches
row 11: p1, p2tog

run yarn through all live stitches to remove from the needles and cinch the opening closed, secure and weave in ends.

This is available as a PDF file

I hope this helps. I have made this into chart form. You can click on this image to enlarge it or download the chart in the link below



I have charted this and made it a PDF file


If you have any questions about this (or any of my post) feel free to ask in a comment. I do reply. you may want to check through the current comments to see if it has been answered already ☺