Friday, August 7, 2020

No bake chocolate oatmeal peanutbutter cookies


2 C. Sugar

1/2 C. Milk

1 stick (1/2 cup) butter

1/4 C. Cocoa powder 

1 C. Peanutbutter 

3 C. Old fashioned rolled oats

1T. Vanilla extract


Combine sugar, butter, milk and cocoa into medium pot over medium heat stirring constantly till melted and it comes to rolling boil. Let boil 1 minute. 

Add in peanutbutter and stir till melted and blended. Remove from heat.

Add oatmeal and vanilla and stir till well blended. Drop by tablespoon full onto wax paper and let sit.


Drop by tablespoon fills onto wax paper and let set.

Sunday, July 26, 2020

Healing a tattoo with saniderm wrap

O. K. This is a very off topic post for my blog. I have tattoos and love tattoos. I actually have 6, and got my 1st in the 90's. My blog is G's Crafts and Things... this is part of the n' Things. 😉

My latest tattoo is a Phoenix which I drew (I drew my other tattoos as well) and my artist took my drawing and came up with a masterpiece. I got this done by Amanda at Wealthy Street Tattoo in Grand Rapids Michigan.

This is the 1st tattoo I've had where sanaderm was used to heal it. Sanaderm is a medical grade protective adhesive film about the thickness of plastic wrap. But its breathable while prevents dirt and contaminates to get to the ink. So far I'm loving it! What it also does is it seals in the tattoo so you can do things like, ya know, get dressed without anything rubbing it. Also you can sleep without your sheets or covers getting on it. This tattoo wraps to my shoulder blade and I can sleep on that side no problem which is awesome because I toss and turn often and I remember waking up when I had my other arm done and hit it wrong in my sleep. It also keeps the tattoo moist and you dont have to do the traditional wash multiple times a day and apply ointment. They stick it on after the tattoo is washed and dry and you dont touch it. Easy peasy.

You can also buy saniderm yourself reasonably on amazon and put it on at home when you take the plastic wrap off and wash it the 1st time. Just dry it and do not use ointment before applying the saniderm. The official instructions say to change the wrap a couple times. But I've looked all around and many artists do it like mine directs. Put it on in the shop and leave it on.

I was tattooed Wednesday evening. It is now sunday. So almost 4 full days.

The ink and plasma weeps and pools under the film, but it remains sealed and protected, though it does look gross.
Some bonus points is it is getting itchy. Being that its sealed under the film, I'm able to actually touch it and rub it gently and that is very relieving. Also if I move my arm around it moves the film which feels good to.

This tattoo isn't complete yet. I go back in and get all the coloring done in a few weeks. This is after 4 hours of black work.

So heres some pictures. This was during when she was finishing up the outlining. Tattoos in the era of covid, wear a mask!
 This is when it was washed after the line work was done before starting to fill in.
 This was as soon as I got home. The saniderm is in place and you can easily see the deaign
This is a great view of the head without the glare on the wrap. Remember, the tattoo is not done. When I go back the sun will be filled in, the fire in the tail will be complete and the wings will have blue in them. Right now the red tail feathers are only outlined.

 This is today. Almost 4 full days later. The saniderm is getting gross, but the tattoo is still safely sealed inside. The wrap is funky around the edges and wrinkly. I'm looking foward to taking it off, which I plan to do tomorrow or Tuesday. I'll update when I remove the saniderm. So far I'm totally sold on this stuff.
For refrence, this is the picture I drew and gave to my artist which she used to inspire my tattoo. This gives an idea what the coloring will be like.
See y'all when its revealed.
So I got the film off. It came off pretty easy. There is a sticky residue on my skin,  but that'll work off over a few washings. I peeled the film downward and back against the skin. Dont peel it outwards. I did it in the shower to.
Here is the tattoo. I love everything about it and cant wait till I finish it next month. It's perfect, placement is perfect. I love how the wing and tail flexes as I move my arm.






Tuesday, April 14, 2020

Easy no sew mask

Easy DIY dust / sickness mask


This is a great design if you happen to need a quick face mask during the current pandemic. Or simply find you need a dust mask for your crafting and hobbies but either don't know how to sew or simply don't want to.

They gave us these black masks at work and I thought the design was super clever so I wanted to share. I was going to take measurements, but it's not really relevant  because size would also depend on the fabric you use. I used an XL tshirt for the grey one here. The shape is really basic and easy. I cut this out through both sides of the tshirt so I got 2 from one cut. Front and back of the shirt.

The mask part that covers your mouth will be as wide at the center of the mask. The triangle bits become part of the strap so it's not as wide as it may seem. Cut the corners rounded. If you're using tshirt material , it will stretch more. Also do not make your straps any narrower than 1 inch as they will roll into a rope. I cut the tshirt width wise.

You want to cut the mask part tall enough to cover your nose and pull under your chin. You also want the slits yo rest on your cheeks.

There are 2 slits on either side that you pull your straps through and this gives the mask a contour shape and fit.




 You can see the slits in sides of this one. You want to cut them small enough to pull the straps through. 1 XL tshirt width was fine for me. You want to make sure to cut out the triangles or it will be to bulky yo pull through the slits.
 If using tshirts, before you pull that you lay it flat and see which side the edge curls towards. This is the side you want to put towards your face.


These masks are incredibly easy to make and use. You can make them out of anything you want. Tshirts,  button up shirts. Old clothing, sheets and pillowcases you have laying around. Maybe cut them much larger than you think you'll need as it's always better to have to much and trim down till its perfect.  Then there's the.

I hope someone out there gets use from this.

I personally found the tshirt material more comfortable as it has more give.

Remember the coronavirus is very contagious and you can have it and spread it before you even feel sick. It is reccomend to wear a mask to help prevent the spread of COVID-19 by basically keeping your breath to yourself.

My mask helps you and your mask helps me. I wear a mask if I have to be around people so that if I find out I have COVID-19 next week I know I did my part to try to stop the spread this week.

Be safe and be smart.

I'd love to know what you think of this mask. Drop a comment and have a great day!

Saturday, March 28, 2020

No excuse bread

In these times I though I would share a bread recipe i used to always make. This was the 1st bread I ever made and it's easy to follow. This is an old recipe out of an old lalecha league cookbook called "mothers in the kitchen"

                           no excuse bread

Recipe By     :
Serving Size  : 20    Preparation Time :0:00
Categories    : Breads

  Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
--------  ------------  --------------------------------
  2           packages  yeast
  2          teaspoons  salt
     1/3           cup  butter -- softened
     1/3           cup  honey
     2/3           cup  powdered milk -- optional
  2              whole  egg
  1                cup  wheat germ -- optional
  2               cups  water -- warm
  7               cups  flour -- unsifted

Have all ingredients at room temperature. Combine warm water, yeast and honey. Put all ingredients and 3 cups of the flour in large mixing bowl. Beat 5-10 minutes at medium speed of electric mixer. Remove beaters.

By hand stir in another 3 cups flour, but there's no need to make it smooth.

sprinkle 1 cup flour in a circle about 10 inches in diameter on the kneading surface. Turn out the dough onto this flour. Oil your hands and begin kneeing in flour using finger tips only until dough stiffens up and isn't so sticky.

Knead 5-10 minutes or until dough is smooth and elastic. Adding additional flour if necessary. Poking a finger into the dough should leave an imprint that holds its form but slightly bounces back.

Cover with plastic wrap and folded towel. Let rest 20 minutes. Punch down by kneading a few strokes. Divide into 2 equal portions. On oiled surface, with oiled rolling pin, roll out each portion into appropriate an 8x12 inch rectangle.

If you've never rolled yeast dough, it seems like trying to roll foam rubber, but keep at it. Roll rectangle up towards you, jellyroll fashion from small end, sealing well.

Place seam side down in greased bread pans; brush with oil. Cover with plastic wrap, refrigerate anywhere from 2-*24 hours.

I would make this at night and bake it in the morning. about 10 minutes before baking, preheat oven and remove dough from refrigerator. Uncover, puncture with an oiled toothpick any air bubbles that may have developed. Bake 30-35 minutes at 375ºF

For the oil i used butter consistently through the recipe.

                                    - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Per Serving (excluding unknown items): 255 Calories; 6g Fat (20.2% calories from fat); 8g Protein; 43g Carbohydrate; 2g Dietary Fiber; 34mg Cholesterol; 270mg Sodium.  Exchanges: 2 1/2 Grain(Starch); 0 Lean Meat; 0 Non-Fat Milk; 1 Fat; 1/2 Other Carbohydrates.

NOTES : 1 packet yeast equals 2 1/4 teaspoon
You can substitute sugar for honey.
Whole wheat bread: may wish to replace honey with Molasses or part of each. use half whole wheat flour and half white. Bake 35-40 minutes at 375ºF.
High protein bread: Replace 1 cup flour with 6Tbs soy flour, 6Tbs powdered milk, 2Tbs wheat germ.
Add this with the 1st flour addition. This is especially good for  children or older persons who don't like to chew meat. Bake 40-45 minutes at 350ºF

Nutr. Assoc. : 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0

Tuesday, June 4, 2019

G's sock blanket

Update progress pic 8/1/20


               


I will add to this as I make it
Why am I posting a sock blanket when there are loads of sock blankets out there? I did a few tricks with this one. I'm working the co and 1st row in black which will frame each square. I'm doing a sk2p every other row and I'm slipping the last stitch for a easy pickup edge.this is also made so that all the edges are pointy and the squares are turned so points are up.

The marker is for the center decrease. It shifts on the wrong side and Mark's the decrease on the right side.

To start my blanket I made 3 square groupings so that my points at the bottom of the blanket are 2 squares deep (the top will match). My blanket is 6 points/groups wide. I made my points and then joined them once I had enough. If you dont want the deep points, just make single 1st squares  and join them as described later.

PLEASE NOTE!
I am a mirror knitter. This means I knit left to right. If you are not a mirror knitter please reverse left and right! Ex. When I say join on the left, or left edge of the blanket, you will be working on your right. Photos in this pattern will appear reversed if you knit right to left.

Using fingerling/sock weight yarn and size 3 needles (I will be switching between knitting and crochet, but that will be later)

Tools:
Size 3 (3.25mm) needles
Size C (3.12mm) crochet hook
1 stitch marker
Yarn needle to weave in ends

Abbreviations 
co - cast on / k - knit / pm - place marker / sm - slip marker / sk2p - slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease) / s1wyif - slip 1 with yarn in front
sc - single crochet / ss - slip stitch / ch - chain

Always join with right side facing. Slip marker on wrong side rows, decrease on right side rows.

1st square:
* I use the long tail cast on

With border color: Co 24, pm, co 25 (the stitch with the marker on it will be your center stitch), Turn. - 49 stitches
*Every square will be worked exactly the same as written below after the setup row. Only the setup row varies depending on where you are placing it. The squares will give the setup row, then say finish square. 
Row 1: K to marker, remove marker, k1, pm. K to end, turn. Break yarn. - 49 stitches

Join in color B:
Row 2: K to marker, sm, sk2p, k to last stitch, s1 wyif, turn - 47 stitches 
Row 3: k to marker, remove marker, k1, replace marker, k to last stitch, s1 wyif, turn - 47 stitches
Repeat rows 2 and 3 till 3 stitches remain. Sk2p, k1 break yarn, pull end through and weave in ends



2nd square, Joining to square 1 on the left 

With border color: 
Co24, PM, co1, pickup 24 stitches along the edge, turn
-Finish square 

After casting on, pickup stitches. There are 24 slipped edge stitches on the square. Start with black.


This is after the co and pickup 



I leave the co tail loose so if there are any gaps or stretched stitches where it transitions from co to pickup I can use the tail to close it and straighten it up as I weave in ends. The strand on the left is my tail from breaking yarn. I've ran ut under a few stitches on the needle.


Here is the square after a few rows.




3rd square, joining to square 1 on the right:
*to cast on after picking up stitches  I use the knitted caston method 

With border color and starting at the point, pickup 24 stitches from the other side of square 1, PM, co25, turn
-Finish square 





4 - Joining square (also body square)
* I co one with backwards loop

With border color, pickup 24 stitches, pm, co1, pickup 24 stitches from next square
-Finish square 
All the squares in the middle will be made this way. But instead of m1, you pickup one stitch from the point of the square above as described in the next square. This can be easily done with the hook.




5 - Left inner edge including edging
*if you dont want to crochet, just pickup the 24/1/24 stitches. But doing this will leave 1 edge of the side squares without a border.

Join edging color to border edge, ch1, sc in same space, sc in next 22 edge stitches, 2 sc in last stitch,  ch1, insert hook into 1st slipped edge stitch on other side of point, draw up a loop, pull loop through loop on hook and place the loop on the needle, pickup the next 23 stitches (24 stitches on needle), pm,  pickup 1 stitch through the point in the middle square, pickup 24 stitches up along the edge of the next square

-Finish square 

 






6 - Right inner edge square with edging 
With border color pickup 24, pm, pickup 1 from point, pickup 24 from next square.
Leave the 49 stitches on the needle. With the hook insert it into the 1st slipped stitch on the other side of the point (outside edge), draw up a loop, ch1, sc in same space, sc in next 23 slipped stitches along the squares edge, ch1 turn. 

Return row: Working in front loop only ss in each stitch to end, 1 sc into point, ch1, hook last knit stitch and pull it through the loop on the hook, place loop back on needle 
- Finish square
Crochet down edge and slip back

Hook 1st stitch and pull it through the loop on hook and put it back on the needle and keep knitting



7 - outer left edge 
co 24, pm, pickup 1 from point, pickup 24 stitches from side of square, turn
- Finish square 

8 - outer right edge
Pickup 24 stitches along edge, PM, pickup 1 stitch from point, co 24 stitches, turn
- Finish square 

End the blanket with the last row being the wide outer edge row

Finishing edging
With crochet hook, join border color to 1st border slipped stitch of last row of squares, ch1, sc in same space, 1sc in next 22 slipped stitches, 2sc in last space, [ch1, 2sc in 1st slipped stitch on other side of the point, sc in next 22 slipped stitches, insert hook into border slipped stitch, draw up a loop, (skip point), insert hook into 2st slipped border stitch of next square, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook. Sc in next 23 slipped stitches, 2 sc in last stitch.] Repeat to top of point on last square. Ch1, 2sc in next slipped stitch, sc in next 23 slipped stitches, break yarn and weave in ends.

This is a mockup of how I will finish it. Clearly it will not be done for a very long time, so instead of waiting till I actually finish, this is how it will be done.



Here is a picture with the squares numbered to show where they fit


You can add large squares by working the left then righ and leaving a 2 square space then picking up 2 squares worth of stitches (pickup the 48 stitches on either side).

Monday, April 29, 2019

I'm back!

I haven't posted in a long time. I never really did post much as I try to keep this blog to relevant and helpful posts. I don't post just to post. But we lost internet access to the desktop quite a while back and I never got a new desktop until now. There are several patterns I've been meaning to get to, but a tablet is inconvenient, and I write my charts in Excel, which is also clumsy on a tablet or lap top.

So hopefully you'll be seeing a few more posts pop up.

I share my patterns on Revelry as well as here. If there is a PDF it is available on rav and off rav through Keep & Share. Keep & Share has limited availability so if the pattern seems to be not available, try the rav link, or try again the next day. I would have to pay to be able to not have that happen and my patterns are free, so I'd rather not pay. But I has proven in the past to be a good idea to have the patterns available from 2 sources.

Drunken Masonery

5/1/19
I updated the PDF for this to correct issues regarding stitch count that were brought to my attention. I had added the YO's on the side B rows to make the M1 easier on the next row, but I accidentally put this in the space where a stitch used to be. I added columns of "no stitch" shading to correct the row counts. both links will download the new PDF. Please be patient, I work alone :)

I finally got this scarf pattern all worked out. I simplified it quite a bit form the "reversible stitch pattern" I had originally written years ago.

This Pattern works best with a nice medium weight yarn. White, black, dark or variegated yarns will cause the stitch pattern to get lost. I have made this with both Caron Simply Soft and Bernat worsted. It works well in any weight, just use the size needle recommended for your yarn. This stitch creates a reversible fabric that looks different on either side. The columns of twisted stitches only show on one side so that one side looks like a winding pathway and the other side looks like crooked bricks.

This is available on Ravelry!
 
Also available off Ravelry: Drunken Masonery