Tuesday, June 4, 2019

G's sock blanket

I will add to this as I make it
Why am I posting a sock blanket when there are loads of sock blankets out there? I did a few tricks with this one. I'm working the co and 1st row in black which will frame each square. I'm doing a sk2p every other row and I'm slipping the last stitch for a easy pickup edge.this is also made so that all the edges are pointy and the squares are turned so points are up.

The marker is for the center decrease. It shifts on the wrong side and Mark's the decrease on the right side.

To start my blanket I made 3 square groupings so that my points at the bottom of the blanket are 2 squares deep (the top will match). My blanket is 6 points/groups wide. I made my points and then joined them once I had enough. If you dont want the deep points, just make single 1st squares  and join them as described later.

I am a mirror knitter. This means I knit left to right. If you are not a mirror knitter please reverse left and right! Ex. When I say join on the left, or left edge of the blanket, you will be working on your right. Photos in this pattern will appear reversed if you knit right to left.

Using fingerling/sock weight yarn and size 3 needles (I will be switching between knitting and crochet, but that will be later)

Size 3 (3.25mm) needles
Size C (3.12mm) crochet hook
1 stitch marker
Yarn needle to weave in ends

co - cast on / k - knit / pm - place marker / sm - slip marker / sk2p - slip 1, k2tog, pass slipped stitch over (double decrease) / s1wyif - slip 1 with yarn in front
sc - single crochet / ss - slip stitch / ch - chain

Always join with right side facing. Slip marker on wrong side rows, decrease on right side rows.

1st square:
* I use the long tail cast on

With border color: Co 24, pm, co 25 (the stitch with the marker on it will be your center stitch), Turn. - 49 stitches
*Every square will be worked exactly the same as written below after the setup row. Only the setup row varies depending on where you are placing it. The squares will give the setup row, then say finish square. 
Row 1: K to marker, remove marker, k1, pm. K to last stitch, s1wyif, turn. Break yarn. - 49 stitches

Join in color B:
Row 2: K to marker, sm, sk2p, k to last stitch, s1 wyif, turn - 47 stitches 
Row 3: k to marker, remove marker, k1, replace marker, k to last stitch, s1 wyif, turn - 47 stitches
Repeat rows 2 and 3 till 3 stitches remain. Sk2p, k1 break yarn, pull end through and weave in ends

2nd square, Joining to square 1 on the left 

With border color: 
Co24, PM, co1, pickup 24 stitches along the edge, turn
-Finish square 

After casting on, pickup stitches. There are 24 slipped edge stitches on the square. Start with black.

This is after the co and pickup 

I leave the co tail loose so if there are any gaps or stretched stitches where it transitions from co to pickup I can use the tail to close it and straighten it up as I weave in ends. The strand on the left is my tail from breaking yarn. I've ran ut under a few stitches on the needle.

Here is the square after a few rows.

3rd square, joining to square 1 on the right:
*to cast on after picking up stitches  I use the backwards loop method 

With border color and starting at the point, pickup 24 stitches from the other side of square 1, PM, co25, turn
-Finish square 

4 - Joining square (also body square)
* I co one with backwards loop

With border color, pickup 24 stitches, pm, co1, pickup 24 stitches from next square
-Finish square 
All the squares in the middle will be made this way. But instead of m1, you pickup one stitch from the point of the square above as described in the next square. This can be easily done with the hook.

5 - Left inner edge including edging
*if you dont want to crochet, just pickup the 24/1/24 stitches. But doing this will leave 1 edge of the side squares without a border.

Join edging color to border edge, ch1, sc in same space, sc in next 22 edge stitches, 2 sc in last stitch,  ch1, insert hook into 1st slipped edge stitch on other side of point, draw up a loop, pull loop through loop on hook and place the loop on the needle, pickup the next 23 stitches (24 stitches on needle), pm,  pickup 1 stitch through the point in the middle square, pickup 24 stitches up along the edge of the next square

-Finish square 


6 - Right inner edge square with edging 
With border color pickup 24, pm, pickup 1 from point, pickup 24 from next square.
Leave the 49 stitches on the needle. With the hook insert it into the 1st slipped stitch on the other side of the point (outside edge), draw up a loop, ch1, sc in same space, sc in next 23 slipped stitches along the squares edge, ch1 turn. 

Return row: Working in front loop only ss in each stitch to end, 1 sc into point, ch1, hook last knit stitch and pull it through the loop on the hook, place loop back on needle 
- Finish square
Crochet down edge and slip back

Hook 1st stitch and pull it through the loop on hook and put it back on the needle and keep knitting

7 - outer left edge 
co 24, pm, pickup 1 from point, pickup 24 stitches from side of square, turn
- Finish square 

8 - outer right edge
Pickup 24 stitches along edge, PM, pickup 1 stitch from point, co 24 stitches, turn
- Finish square 

End the blanket with the last row being the wide outer edge row

Finishing edging
With crochet hook, join border color to 1st border slipped stitch of last row of squares, ch1, sc in same space, 1sc in next 22 slipped stitches, 2sc in last space, [ch1, 2sc in 1st slipped stitch on other side of the point, sc in next 22 slipped stitches, insert hook into border slipped stitch, draw up a loop, (skip point), insert hook into 2st slipped border stitch of next square, draw up a loop, yo draw through 2 loops on hook. Sc in next 23 slipped stitches, 2 sc in last stitch.] Repeat to top of point on last square. Ch1, 2sc in next slipped stitch, sc in next 23 slipped stitches, break yarn and weave in ends.

This is a mockup of how I will finish it. Clearly it will not be done for a very long time, so instead of waiting till I actually finish, this is how it will be done.

Here is a picture with the squares numbered to show where they fit

You can add large squares by working the left then righ and leaving a 2 square space then picking up 2 squares worth of stitches (pickup the 48 stitches on either side).

Monday, April 29, 2019

I'm back!

I haven't posted in a long time. I never really did post much as I try to keep this blog to relevant and helpful posts. I don't post just to post. But we lost internet access to the desktop quite a while back and I never got a new desktop until now. There are several patterns I've been meaning to get to, but a tablet is inconvenient, and I write my charts in Excel, which is also clumsy on a tablet or lap top.

So hopefully you'll be seeing a few more posts pop up.

I share my patterns on Revelry as well as here. If there is a PDF it is available on rav and off rav through Keep & Share. Keep & Share has limited availability so if the pattern seems to be not available, try the rav link, or try again the next day. I would have to pay to be able to not have that happen and my patterns are free, so I'd rather not pay. But I has proven in the past to be a good idea to have the patterns available from 2 sources.

Drunken Masonery

I updated the PDF for this to correct issues regarding stitch count that were brought to my attention. I had added the YO's on the side B rows to make the M1 easier on the next row, but I accidentally put this in the space where a stitch used to be. I added columns of "no stitch" shading to correct the row counts. both links will download the new PDF. Please be patient, I work alone :)

I finally got this scarf pattern all worked out. I simplified it quite a bit form the "reversible stitch pattern" I had originally written years ago.

This Pattern works best with a nice medium weight yarn. White, black, dark or variegated yarns will cause the stitch pattern to get lost. I have made this with both Caron Simply Soft and Bernat worsted. It works well in any weight, just use the size needle recommended for your yarn. This stitch creates a reversible fabric that looks different on either side. The columns of twisted stitches only show on one side so that one side looks like a winding pathway and the other side looks like crooked bricks.

This is available on Ravelry!
Also available off Ravelry: Drunken Masonery

Sunday, April 14, 2019

How to win when you loose at yarn chicken

How I adapted this pattern to make the yarn stretch.

I chose to use a hook 2 sizes larger so running out is my fault. I did buy more dark purple, but didnt want to have to wait for more of the light yarn. Being that it was the last band followed by a lace edge I chose to skinny up the design

Below is the lace band overwritten with my adaption. The screen shot is from the program "knit companion", which is a fabulous app! The section I modified was everything in the white.

1. a the 1st row of sc is just a foundation to build the next row of DC on. I conserved yarn by changing this row to a sc, ch1, sc row instead of all sc. Being sure the sc would be where the next row was worked into so that the chains would show and creeatevthat boundary foundation similar to the band above.

2. I made sure to work the DC for the next row into the sc stitches. This still leaves the ch stitches below visible  so that it keeps the feel of the origional panel

3.the next row of sc is to work the cluster stitches onto. I eliminated it. 

4. The 3tc cluster stitches are a HUGE yarn suck. I reduced them to a 1tc v stitch. This maintains the V, but cuts the yarn by close to half. I made sure to crochet into the chain1 spaces of the DC row as the sc row is missing.

5. Because I eliminated the row of sc before the V row, I eliminated the row of sc after to keep it symmetrical. This row gives you the foundation for the next row of dc.

6. Because there are no sc stitches over the chain spaces in the V row I worked the DC stitches directly into the actual chain stitches. Working around the chain will allow them to slip around and you want to maintain spacing. And without the sc row to work into,  placing them into the chains secures their spot. When working at the top of the VV I went down under the strands and stitched between the to pull it all up nice and tight.

Below you can see the difference in the full panel and the thinned out panel. It's clearly lighter, but it blends in as it tapers to the lace edging. Also keeping the essence of the main rows makes it look more planned. I had to frog this section numerous times as a reduced stitches to conserve yarn. Whatever I did below the V row i had to do above it to keep it balanced.

None of this effected cstitch count. The row is a bit shorter, but counts are all the same

The pattern is available on ravelry. It is for sale and the charts are great. The written pattern is a bit confusing as they way over explain it. 

My shawl took 2 Hanks of dark purple and would have taken a 2nd hank of the light to finish. But if you follow the pattern you should have enough. I ran out of purple about 1/2 way through the last purple band. Again, I was using an I hon instead of G because I like the fabric better.

This is a picture of it pinned out. I steam blocked it. I also used sock yarn

Monday, November 14, 2016

Beaded star edging

Celestarium edging

I recently finished the Celestarium shawl. I modified a popular edging that is used and have charted it. There are 2 charts on the PDF so that standard or mirror knitters can follow it. Due to the option of knitting this standard or mirror I did not label the / or \. use SSK or K2TOG as needed to get a matching lean per chart symbol.

 The edging is a 14 row repeat, but contains 13 beads per row! Make sure you have enough beads to compete this. I used 2 sizes of beads for my shawl and edging. For the shawl I used a triangular bead for the large stars and smaller 6/0 beads for the rest. for the edging I used mostly all 6/0 but used 1 larger one at the points.

My finished shawl is very bead heavy!

How many beads will you need?
total edge stitches divided by 7 (edge stitches needed per repeat). Take that and multiply by 13 (beads per repeat)
Stitches / 7 x 13 = beads needed

this is the PDF file for the star edging

And my ravelry project page for my shawl. I have detailed notes on how i completed it

May the stars be your guide

Saturday, August 6, 2016

How to use tiger tail wire (Beadalon) to bead knitting

This is my preferred method for placing beads onto knitting. This is the same method as what people use dental floss, but the wire (found in the beading/jewelry making section) is stiffer and easier to handle. And once you have a kink in it you can load up the wire and set it aside and the beads don't easily fall off. Also you don't have to worry about your hook splitting your yarn as you try to work the beads onto the stitches.

This is the wire, it is a nylon coated steel wire used for jewelry making. I use a larger gauge of this type of wire for my stitch markers. The fine gauge works well and allows you to use more of your beads. Seed beads don't always have a consistant sized hole in the center which makes some useless because you cannot get a hook into it. With the wire, you can use the beads which may have a smaller hole.

 I cut segments about 5-6" and put 1 bead on and tie the wire around it into a knot towards an end of the wire. This creates a stopper so you won't loose your beads.

I'll use my current shawl, Celestarium, for this demo.

 load the wire up Leaving a long enough tail to fold over. Fold the end to put a kink in it (at least 1 inch from the end). 

Hook the end into your stitch

Holding both strands of the wire, pull the stitch off the needle.

 Slide a bead down and make sure to feed the tail of the wire through the bead as you transfer it onto the stitch. Place the stitch back on the needle and remove the wire and continue working.

For this particular shawl I strung the bead onto the stitch before I knit it. this creates a tight stitch and the beads sink back into the fabric to sit nice and snug. so I string the bead onto the stitch, place the stitch onto the needle and than knit it.

You can also place the bead onto the stitch you just knit. this will create a little more slack in that particular stitch because there is enough yarn to pass through the bead and go around the needle. I do this if I want to make sure the beads will stay on top nicely. Ilike if I'm following a line of decrease. It allows the bead a little bit of slack to be more raised on the surface.

Here is a bead in my current shawl. it's nice and tight

These are the beads on the Sagittaria shawl I did. I beaded the stitch after knitting it (knit the stitch, placed the bead and put back on the needle). They sit nicely on top of the lines of decrease. These particular beads were much smaller than the ones I normally use.

Sunday, July 10, 2016

Facebook 101

Wanted to put this in a post because i captured screen shots to help explain things.

These are a couple things you can do to customize your feed on Facebook. If you have friends who you don't want to unfriend, but you don't agree with, or find some things they post offensive and don't want to see or deal with it you can customize your feed in a couple ways.

Part 1
 Editing what you see on your wall

If you have someone you don't want to unfriend. but really don't want to see their post, you can unfollow them. This will mean that NONE of their posts will show up on your wall. You can, however, check out their wall at any time and see what they post.

Click/hover on the down arrow in the upper right corner of their post. I used an example of someone (who I have no intention of doing any of this to, but it's an example). 

A menu will drop down. If you click "unfollow" you will no longer see ANY of their posts.

If you generally like their post, but don't like some of the stuff they share and don't want to see those things. Click on the down arrow of a post they share. In the drop down menu will be an option to hide all from XXXX

This person shared a post from New Yorker Cartoons. If I found this offensive or irritating and didn't want to see anything from this page/group I could click the option "hide all from xxxx" Now I will no longer see any posts that are shared from this site/group (regardless of who shares them).

*Note: if you comment on something you will get notifications. If you don't want to get anymore notifications, you can select "Turn off notifications for this post" from the same drop down menu.

That little "turn on notifications" means you can be notified whenever activity happens on this post. you can click it and get notifications even if you don't post on it.

Part 2
Editing what others can see that you post

Now if you post a lot and have a wide variety of people on your friends list. Maybe you have people who hassle you about your posts. You don't want to unfriend them for reasons, but you would like them to just not see what you are posting. You can customize who sees your posts.

This is where groups comes in handy. You can make any groups you want and they are visible for you. The people in those groups do not know they are in them (unless it's a smart group). I use lots of groups mainly to help id where my friends come from. Also to keep family sorted out.

But here is how you can filter what others see from you.

Hover over their profile picture and hover/click on the "friends" box.

A menu will pop up. I have highlighted  "add to another list". If you click on this another menu will appear. You can then add/delete them from any group at any time. At the bottom will be a "new list" option. you can use this to create a new group. Once you have your groups sorted out you can use this to filter your output.

For this purpose I used my group "pearl clutchers" which is a group that I created that I put people in who are easily offended by my posts or share drastically different views than I do who might give me trouble when seeing what I post. I'm very liberal.

You can actually skip this step if you only have a particular person who  you don't want to see your stuff. See the next step if this is the case.

 So you have your groups sorted. you can then change your defaults.

When you are about to write a post, hover/click on your "friends" box as seen below. a menu will drop down. You can scroll down to "more options" and click that.

This will be the next screen that pops up. Here you can go down to the "don't share with..." section and type in the names of the people, or groups of people you do not want to see your general every day posts. This will become your default settings. When done just click to save the settings.

*Note: the check in the "friends of tagged" box. This means that any friends of anyone who is tagged in your post will be able to see that post and it will show up for them weather or not they are your friend.

If you un-click this box, the person tagged will get the notification that they have been tagged, but only mutual friends will also be able to see it.

Now when you write a post your audience is "custom" you can hover over the custom box to see what the current settings are. As you see here it's "friends; Except: pearl clutchers" . Now all my posts will be visible to all my friends, but not the ones who are in my "pearl clutchers" group(unless my friends have unfollowed me, or I shared something from a group/page they have blocked).

And that is how you can tidy up your Facebook feed,edit who sees your stuff and fend off drama.

Your new default won't change until you change it.  I prefer to write all my posts under my default. and if I want to make something public, or change it's settings, I'll go in after it's posted and edit the privacy.

If you change your settings before you post, the new settings become your default until you change it back. This is important to remember if you decide to make your post public by changing your settings before you post. This will change your default to public for the next post as well unless you change it back.

Hope this helps someone.