Sunday, April 14, 2019

How to win when you loose at yarn chicken

How I adapted this pattern to make the yarn stretch.

I chose to use a hook 2 sizes larger so running out is my fault. I did buy more dark purple, but didnt want to have to wait for more of the light yarn. Being that it was the last band followed by a lace edge I chose to skinny up the design

Below is the lace band overwritten with my adaption. The screen shot is from the program "knit companion", which is a fabulous app! The section I modified was everything in the white.

1. a the 1st row of sc is just a foundation to build the next row of DC on. I conserved yarn by changing this row to a sc, ch1, sc row instead of all sc. Being sure the sc would be where the next row was worked into so that the chains would show and creeatevthat boundary foundation similar to the band above.

2. I made sure to work the DC for the next row into the sc stitches. This still leaves the ch stitches below visible  so that it keeps the feel of the origional panel

3.the next row of sc is to work the cluster stitches onto. I eliminated it. 

4. The 3tc cluster stitches are a HUGE yarn suck. I reduced them to a 1tc v stitch. This maintains the V, but cuts the yarn by close to half. I made sure to crochet into the chain1 spaces of the DC row as the sc row is missing.

5. Because I eliminated the row of sc before the V row, I eliminated the row of sc after to keep it symmetrical. This row gives you the foundation for the next row of dc.

6. Because there are no sc stitches over the chain spaces in the V row I worked the DC stitches directly into the actual chain stitches. Working around the chain will allow them to slip around and you want to maintain spacing. And without the sc row to work into,  placing them into the chains secures their spot. When working at the top of the VV I went down under the strands and stitched between the to pull it all up nice and tight.

Below you can see the difference in the full panel and the thinned out panel. It's clearly lighter, but it blends in as it tapers to the lace edging. Also keeping the essence of the main rows makes it look more planned. I had to frog this section numerous times as a reduced stitches to conserve yarn. Whatever I did below the V row i had to do above it to keep it balanced.

None of this effected cstitch count. The row is a bit shorter, but counts are all the same

The pattern is available on ravelry. It is for sale and the charts are great. The written pattern is a bit confusing as they way over explain it. 

My shawl took 2 Hanks of dark purple and would have taken a 2nd hank of the light to finish. But if you follow the pattern you should have enough. I ran out of purple about 1/2 way through the last purple band. Again, I was using an I hon instead of G because I like the fabric better.

This is a picture of it pinned out. I steam blocked it. I also used sock yarn

Monday, November 14, 2016

Beaded star edging

Celestarium edging

I recently finished the Celestarium shawl. I modified a popular edging that is used and have charted it. There are 2 charts on the PDF so that standard or mirror knitters can follow it. Due to the option of knitting this standard or mirror I did not label the / or \. use SSK or K2TOG as needed to get a matching lean per chart symbol.

 The edging is a 14 row repeat, but contains 13 beads per row! Make sure you have enough beads to compete this. I used 2 sizes of beads for my shawl and edging. For the shawl I used a triangular bead for the large stars and smaller 6/0 beads for the rest. for the edging I used mostly all 6/0 but used 1 larger one at the points.

My finished shawl is very bead heavy!

How many beads will you need?
total edge stitches divided by 7 (edge stitches needed per repeat). Take that and multiply by 13 (beads per repeat)
Stitches / 7 x 13 = beads needed

this is the PDF file for the star edging

And my ravelry project page for my shawl. I have detailed notes on how i completed it

May the stars be your guide

Saturday, August 6, 2016

How to use tiger tail wire (Beadalon) to bead knitting

This is my preferred method for placing beads onto knitting. This is the same method as what people use dental floss, but the wire (found in the beading/jewelry making section) is stiffer and easier to handle. And once you have a kink in it you can load up the wire and set it aside and the beads don't easily fall off. Also you don't have to worry about your hook splitting your yarn as you try to work the beads onto the stitches.

This is the wire, it is a nylon coated steel wire used for jewelry making. I use a larger gauge of this type of wire for my stitch markers. The fine gauge works well and allows you to use more of your beads. Seed beads don't always have a consistant sized hole in the center which makes some useless because you cannot get a hook into it. With the wire, you can use the beads which may have a smaller hole.

 I cut segments about 5-6" and put 1 bead on and tie the wire around it into a knot towards an end of the wire. This creates a stopper so you won't loose your beads.

I'll use my current shawl, Celestarium, for this demo.

 load the wire up Leaving a long enough tail to fold over. Fold the end to put a kink in it (at least 1 inch from the end). 

Hook the end into your stitch

Holding both strands of the wire, pull the stitch off the needle.

 Slide a bead down and make sure to feed the tail of the wire through the bead as you transfer it onto the stitch. Place the stitch back on the needle and remove the wire and continue working.

For this particular shawl I strung the bead onto the stitch before I knit it. this creates a tight stitch and the beads sink back into the fabric to sit nice and snug. so I string the bead onto the stitch, place the stitch onto the needle and than knit it.

You can also place the bead onto the stitch you just knit. this will create a little more slack in that particular stitch because there is enough yarn to pass through the bead and go around the needle. I do this if I want to make sure the beads will stay on top nicely. Ilike if I'm following a line of decrease. It allows the bead a little bit of slack to be more raised on the surface.

Here is a bead in my current shawl. it's nice and tight

These are the beads on the Sagittaria shawl I did. I beaded the stitch after knitting it (knit the stitch, placed the bead and put back on the needle). They sit nicely on top of the lines of decrease. These particular beads were much smaller than the ones I normally use.

Sunday, July 10, 2016

Facebook 101

Wanted to put this in a post because i captured screen shots to help explain things.

These are a couple things you can do to customize your feed on Facebook. If you have friends who you don't want to unfriend, but you don't agree with, or find some things they post offensive and don't want to see or deal with it you can customize your feed in a couple ways.

Part 1
 Editing what you see on your wall

If you have someone you don't want to unfriend. but really don't want to see their post, you can unfollow them. This will mean that NONE of their posts will show up on your wall. You can, however, check out their wall at any time and see what they post.

Click/hover on the down arrow in the upper right corner of their post. I used an example of someone (who I have no intention of doing any of this to, but it's an example). 

A menu will drop down. If you click "unfollow" you will no longer see ANY of their posts.

If you generally like their post, but don't like some of the stuff they share and don't want to see those things. Click on the down arrow of a post they share. In the drop down menu will be an option to hide all from XXXX

This person shared a post from New Yorker Cartoons. If I found this offensive or irritating and didn't want to see anything from this page/group I could click the option "hide all from xxxx" Now I will no longer see any posts that are shared from this site/group (regardless of who shares them).

*Note: if you comment on something you will get notifications. If you don't want to get anymore notifications, you can select "Turn off notifications for this post" from the same drop down menu.

That little "turn on notifications" means you can be notified whenever activity happens on this post. you can click it and get notifications even if you don't post on it.

Part 2
Editing what others can see that you post

Now if you post a lot and have a wide variety of people on your friends list. Maybe you have people who hassle you about your posts. You don't want to unfriend them for reasons, but you would like them to just not see what you are posting. You can customize who sees your posts.

This is where groups comes in handy. You can make any groups you want and they are visible for you. The people in those groups do not know they are in them (unless it's a smart group). I use lots of groups mainly to help id where my friends come from. Also to keep family sorted out.

But here is how you can filter what others see from you.

Hover over their profile picture and hover/click on the "friends" box.

A menu will pop up. I have highlighted  "add to another list". If you click on this another menu will appear. You can then add/delete them from any group at any time. At the bottom will be a "new list" option. you can use this to create a new group. Once you have your groups sorted out you can use this to filter your output.

For this purpose I used my group "pearl clutchers" which is a group that I created that I put people in who are easily offended by my posts or share drastically different views than I do who might give me trouble when seeing what I post. I'm very liberal.

You can actually skip this step if you only have a particular person who  you don't want to see your stuff. See the next step if this is the case.

 So you have your groups sorted. you can then change your defaults.

When you are about to write a post, hover/click on your "friends" box as seen below. a menu will drop down. You can scroll down to "more options" and click that.

This will be the next screen that pops up. Here you can go down to the "don't share with..." section and type in the names of the people, or groups of people you do not want to see your general every day posts. This will become your default settings. When done just click to save the settings.

*Note: the check in the "friends of tagged" box. This means that any friends of anyone who is tagged in your post will be able to see that post and it will show up for them weather or not they are your friend.

If you un-click this box, the person tagged will get the notification that they have been tagged, but only mutual friends will also be able to see it.

Now when you write a post your audience is "custom" you can hover over the custom box to see what the current settings are. As you see here it's "friends; Except: pearl clutchers" . Now all my posts will be visible to all my friends, but not the ones who are in my "pearl clutchers" group(unless my friends have unfollowed me, or I shared something from a group/page they have blocked).

And that is how you can tidy up your Facebook feed,edit who sees your stuff and fend off drama.

Your new default won't change until you change it.  I prefer to write all my posts under my default. and if I want to make something public, or change it's settings, I'll go in after it's posted and edit the privacy.

If you change your settings before you post, the new settings become your default until you change it back. This is important to remember if you decide to make your post public by changing your settings before you post. This will change your default to public for the next post as well unless you change it back.

Hope this helps someone.

Saturday, March 12, 2016

Beef and Guinness stew

Making this tonight and it's pretty good!

5 lb. Stew beef cut into 1 1/2" chunks
1/2 c. All purpous flour
Salt & pepper
5 T. Vegtabl oil or suet
3-4 large yellow onions coarsely chopped
1 lb. White mushroom halfed or quartered
2 12 oz. Bottles Guinness Extra Stout
2 c. Beef stock
1 TSP. Brown sugar
1 TSP. Dried thyme leaves
Generous pinch of nutmeg
4 bay leaves

Toss meat, flour, salt & pepper till coated

Heat oil in large Dutch oven or stew pot. Add meat an brown thourly. Remove from pot and set aside when done.

Add the onions to the pot and cook over medium heat until they just become translucent.

Return beef to the pot and add all other ingredients with salt and pepper to taste.

Bring to a boil and cover. Continue to simmer gently for about 2 hours stirring occasionally.

If you want, you can make some Beer bread with another bottle of Guinness to go with the stew.

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

One row lace scarf

The base of this is co in multiples of:
Knit flat - 6+1
In the round - 6

Use a larger needle than called for. This yarn is some hand spun worsted and I'm using a size 9 needle.

For one I co 6+5 to create a 3 stitch garter edge.

Every row = k1, yo, k1, s1 k2tog psso, k1 yo. Repeat to end k1

This creates a richly textured fabric that is deeply rippled. Works great with self striping yarn. I will be turning minecinto s moebius cowl by grafting th ends

Tuesday, December 8, 2015

Drop stitch moebius cowl

Drop stitch moebius cowl
"The 80's will never die!"

This pattern is available on Ravelry!

Fingerling weight/sock yarn. I used:

Wild Hare Fiber Studio Hand Dyed Pinnacle Sock Yarn
colorway: Neon Lights
My cowl only took about 2/3 the hank. so this does not use much yarn at all! This particular yarn is UV reactive and will glow under black light
needle: Size 5 interchangable and a smaller size for the opposite end (I used a size 2 on the other end of mine) This will allow you to easily get all the wraps off the cord after they have worked their way around the cable. If you cannot use 2 different sized needles, this will be difficult to make! the stitches choke up on the cable as they work their way around the needle and are difficult to get back off to work them.

Co 155 (multiples of 10+5. Total stitch count will be multiples of 20+10) stitches using cats moebius co. To make the stitch pattern line up properly on both sides of the co edge you need to co in multiples of 10 + 5 giving you a total stitch count of multiples of 20 + 10.

For more information about the moebius cast on and other things about the moebius (including how to deal with wrong stitch counts), see my post: Demystifying the moebius!

Setup round: Place marker at the start of the round and purl one complete round. The 1st half will be really difficult to work as you don't have stitches, but just loops and the loops will be tight on the cabel. To help with this I have interchangeable needles and put the smallest tip I have (a size 2 in my set) on the end I knit my stitches off from. The 2nd half will be easier to knit. This also helps when knitting into the row with all the yo's as they tend to choke up on the cable as its being worked.
Round 1: (k6, yo, k1, yo 2, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, yo) repeat to end, m1

Round 2: purl all stitches. On multiple yo's, purl the 1st wrap while dropping the rest as you work

Round 3: knit

Round 4: purl

Round 5: k1, (yo, k1, yo2, k1, yo3, k1, yo2, k1, yo, k6) repeat to end

Rounds 6, 7, and 8 are the same as 2, 3, and 4

*Only work the M1 on round 1. On all other repeats, just work this as a single knit stitch at the end of the row!

Repeat rounds 1 - 8 until the cowl is the desired width. Bind off loosely.

I did not block mine as I like the texture and ripply look of the fabric.

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Moebius bubble cowl/scarf

Moebius Bubble Cowl


This pattern is available on Ravlery!

Yarn: premier yarns "wool-free lace"
Needles: size 2

This yarn, though labeled "lace" is more like a sock (fingerling) yarn. This pattern is easily modified for any yarn. The thicker the yarn you use, I recommend doing your sections with less stitches. Use the needle size recommended for your yarn. The finished cowl is quite warm and the stitch pattern allows plenty of stretch if you desire to use it as a hood.

I also like to use stitch markers at each knit/purl transition point.

Here is a sample of this same stitch in a thicker, hand spun yarn worked on size 6 needles and it is a 6x6 rib. this yarn is pretty much worsted.

If you intend to make this a cowl, you can either cast on provisionally and graft or do a 3 needle bind off, or cast on regularly and seam. Of course grafting will result in a seamless cowl and have a post here that deals with working the Kitchener Stitch (grafting) in pattern. It's a useful skill to have and not nearly as complicated as it may seem once you understand it.

I have this pattern charted. it's a simple pattern to adapt and also makes a great scarf if you don't want to make a moebius. As written, it's basically a 10 stitch by 10 row checker of tight and dropped stitches with twisted stitches to help keep it all tidy on the edges of the transition points. A 10x10 rib that creates a reversible bubble effect.

A close up of the stitch pattern at the point where I grafted the ends together.

You can read more about creating moebius knits here: Demystifying the moebius!

I did not block this. If you block it, you will loose the texture of the bubbles.

Demystifying the moebius!

I have a couple new moebiuses to post but thought I would post a little trouble shooting and tips post first.

For starters, when I cast on for a center out moebius I use my longest cables. I believe the are 60". I use this for all my center out moebius knits. It's the most comfortable length for me. I also like to put a small tip on the end that i will be knitting off. this makes it easier to get the stitches off the cable.

When it comes to cowls, the moebius is my preferred shape as it lies flat and you don't have any bunching at the twist.

This is regarding the center out moebius knit in the round. You can adapt any stitch pattern that looks good on both sides to a moebius knit! It doesn't even have to be the same on both sides, just has to look good.

I always use Cat's moebius co. YouTube link It's a brilliant and super fast co. But its also incredibly sloppy and somewhat difficult to count as you don't have any actual stitches on the needles until you knit 1/2 way around on round 1. Before that it's just yarn wrapped around the needles and cord.

When casting on you count the stitches being wrapped around the needle only. Each set of wraps creates a wrap on top and on the bottom cord, but only count the top!

If you are converting a regular circular cowl to a moebius, co the same amount the pattern recommends (counting top only).

When converting a nesting pattern like chevrons or drop stitch (as in the cowl I'll be posting) or a staggered pattern. You want to cast on in what ever your pattern stitch repeat is + 1/2 that. If your stitch repeat is 8, for example, you want to cast on in multiples of 8+4. The 1/2 count will let the pattern nest above and below the co line. Your grand total, on a 8 stitch repeat will be a multiple of 16+8 counting all stitches (top and bottom). Here is the cast on of the Moebius waves of Color cowl with 1/2 the stitch repeat added so that it nests (I did a few modifications to the original as well which I detailed on my Ravelry project page).

Now I have yet to cast on a center out moebius and have an accurate stitch count. It could be because its such a fast co that my hands work faster than my brain.

So after I cast on and when I'm working the 1st round, I place markers for counting. Of course ALWAYS use something to mark the start of the round! I place small markers every 20 or so stitches. If you need to adjust your stitch count, make sure to balance it on both sides of the co line! This is extremely important on nesting designs!

If you find you need to add stitches, do it in sets. If you need to add 2 stitches do a M1 and in that same spot on the other side use a locking marker and place it between the stitches on the other side so you know you need to m1 in that spot when you get there. A strand of scrap yarn tied around the spot works to.

If you have to many stitches, decrease in sets as well. K2tog and place a locking marker through 2 stitches on the other side so you know to knit them together when you get there.

You need to increase/decrease in this way for fixing stitch counts to maintain the same amount of stitches above as below to keep things lined up properly when you start your pattern.

Working a moebius flat and seaming into shape

Another cowl I made uses a 20 stitch repeat of 10x10 ribbing. When doing something like this you want a reversible pattern and offset design. When working the cowl, I work it flat like a scarf and seam it on the short ends into a moebius. In ribbing you want your rows to end opposite of how they start. Start with knits, end with purls. When you add the 1/2 twist the sides will line up.

You will also want to make sure any row repeats line up properly. The bubble cowl I made started with a bubble on the 1st column repeat. So I needed to end with a bubble being in the 1st column again so that when the twist was made it lined up properly on the other side. If you have a ribbing pattern and knits are on the left, you want to end with purls on the right so it lines up when grafted.

Also, this type of cowl requires grafting in pattern which isn't nearly as complicated as it sounds. I have a post describing how to Kitchener in pattern which will enable you to Kitchener any combinations of knits and purls. It will also help you to understand what you are doing and to tell where you are at if you have to set it down.

This is the seam of my recent pattern Bubble Moebius cowl.
The seam is the last grey row to the right of the skinny grey strip on the left. On the right you see it flat as a WIP. If you look you will notice that the bubble on the left is knit and the bubble on the right is purl. this needs to be offset like this to be able to make the 1/2 twist required to complete the moebius shape.


Saturday, August 29, 2015

Row counters

These are nice counters that you can leave on your needle. You can't accidentally put them on the wrong row and they count to 100. You can also use them to track repeats of 10 rows or less.

What you need
Chain (closed loops are best. I got mine at Michael's)
Beading wire (I like the nylon coated wire)
Crimp beads
Cutters (to cut the wire)
Pliers (to crimp the crimp beads)
Lobster claw clasps
Whatever beads you like

Break the chain into 10 ring segments
Make a dangle on the lobster claw clasp and add crimp bead to secure
Add a bead to the end chain ring. This marks the bottom of the counter.

GET CREATIVE! Make them however you want. Make matching stitch markers if you want.

How it works:
As a 1-100 as row counter:
The clip represents the 10's place. The clip in the bottom ring is 0, so this is where you start.

You hang it from the needle in the corasponding ring.
Clip on the 1st ring and the 4th ring on the needle =row 4
Clip on the 5th ring and the 2nd ring on the needle=42

Move up to the next ring on the needle at the start of each row. When you've got the top ring on the needle in the next row move back to the 1st ring and move the clip up one ring.

To use as a 1-10 pattern repeat counter:
Place the clip on the ring for the last row of your repeat. Move up one ring per row. When you reach the marker you know you're on your last row of the repeat and return to the 1st ring on the next row.

Saturday, July 18, 2015

Easy cheap yarn sacks.

I do love my knitted yarn sacks. But let's face it, if I spend all my time knitting cozies for my yarn I won't have as much time to knit/crochet with all the yarn in knitted cozies!

So I went to the lingerie section of the store where they sell stockings and bought one of those big packs of knee high stockings. You get a bunch in a box and they're cheap.
Bonus is if you wear them, this is a great use for the ones that are either mismatched or have runs in them. You can also cut the feet off the full stockings you can't wear anymore.

You can then place your center pull cakes and skiens inside the stocking and it will help hold it together as you work and it gets floppy as the nylon will compress  the yarn. It's also great to protect those super soft and delicate yarns that can get nappy from being taken out and stufed back into your project bag. It also keeps it clean oif it falls on the floor.

Reduce, reuse recycle!

Friday, July 3, 2015

Sagataria shawl

This is a free pattern that is available on Ravelry. You can find it here

First I would like to stress this is not my pattern. I in no way wrote it. The charts I offer here reflect my mods. They do not give instruction to make the pattern. I suggest downloading the actual pattern than using these mods if you want to.

I am making this post because I did quite a few modifications to the pattern and also charted my bead placement. I thought it would be good to explain what I did.

1st. the body of the shawl.

Cast on:
This shawl starts with a 2 stitch garter tab. I have a post the shows how to do a garter tab so that you don't have to pick up any stitches when done. You can find it here (it's actually the post just below this one)

This was a traditional Shetland lace. the original has all the decreases leaning the same way so I mirrored them. this is the same stitch pattern used in Rock Island. The charts are mirrored on both sides so I eliminated the 2nd half of the chart so it would print larger. This is what I have for the body of the shawl. If you want to use lifelines in this portion of the pattern I would suggest inserting them on any double decrease row. these rows have the most stitches which makes it easier to pick up off the lifeline if needed.

Instead of the k3tog. I did a s1, k2tog, psso. this centers the decreases

this is the chart I made for chart 1

The edging:

Here I didn't really change the chart. I did change the decreases and used both s1, k2tog, psso and s2knitwise, k1, psso

for the most part I used the later so this created straight lines of stitches with a lined up stitch on top. I did use the 1st version at the tips of the arrows to allow them to come to a clear point. I also moved the decreases from the center of the arrow to the edge to better accent the lines of the arrow heads. Again, this chart is mirrored so you don't need the other side, this allows for larger printing.

I also changed the order of the charts on the page so better see how the pattern repeats lined up with each other. The highlighted stitches  are where I placed the beads I worked the stitch and than removed the loop and slipped a bead onto it before placing it back on the needle.

This bead placement does take a LOT of beads! But I think it's worth it as it really brings out the arrow pattern in the edging.

Here is my charts for the edging

The bind off:

I placed a bead at the tip of each point. I also worked the bind off in pattern. It calls for a stretchy bind off so I worked the one where you make 2 stitches and than knit them together. But I worked the 1st stitch in pattern.

So the bo on mine goes...
k2, slip back, k2tog (place bead on loop), yo, pass last stitch over the yo, *k1, slip back and k2tog* [repeat 4 times). ssk, slip back and k2tog, *k1, slip back and k2tog* [repeat 4 times]. yo pass last stitch over yo, k1, slip back and k2tog (place bead), yo, pass stitch over yo. Basically I worked the 1st stitch of the bo edge as though it were another pattern repeat than I bound it off with the last stitch I had on the needle.

I continued on in this same fashion. It's not necessary to do this, but I liked carrying the decreases to the edge.

Beads... beads... this has a LOT of beads!

when working off your edging every other cluster will turn into a arrow. Of these arrows they will stagger and every other will be shorter. the short arrows take 15 beads each and the long arrow takes 17

for the body of my shawl I worked 7 repeats. this gave me 36 full arrows along the edge 576 beads than another 70 for the increase arrows that resulted from increasing on the points. The edging took 25 beads for a grand total of 671 beads.

My beads are small and I used a size 13 crochet hook to place them on. Another method is to string them onto a beading wire than fold the end of the wire. hook the loop of the stitch with the bend of the wire and put the tip of the wire back into the bead and push the bead down onto the stitch.

Friday, May 22, 2015

No pickup garter tab

I have combined a couple techniques that has resulted in a garter tab that you don't have to pick up a single stitch to make!

1st cast on using the provisional co for toe up socks. For this sample I'll be making a 3 stitch garter tab. So I have 3 stitches on each needle.

 Just pull the needle through the 3 you won't be knitting right now so they are further down the cable and out of the way.

With the 3 stitches that are on the needle
kfb, k2 turn
k3 turn
kfb, k2 turn

repeat these steps. the 1st stitch of the kfb will be the one that you would have to pick up later. Were just doing it right now. End on a kfb row. Do these steps untill you have enough stitches to equal what you would be picking up later.

You can see the 3 loops on the cabel thsn 5 stitches created by the kfb and the last 3 are the live stitches

Now pull your cable tight causing the 3 stitches from the co to pop back up to the tab. My tail is kinda in the way here, but I've moved the cable through so all the stitches atr together.

turn your work and knit across all stitches. this is the 3 live stitches, however many you have on the side (i have 5 in my sample) and the 3 from the co end.

you have just made a garter tab and didn't have to pick up a single stitch!
Here is the co to my current shawl that I used this technique for. This called for a 2 stitch garter tab and 5 stitches to pickup along the edge as well as another 2 stitches from the start.

Tuesday, February 24, 2015

New stitch pattern - Knitting

Clearly this isn't "new" if I reversed engineered it from an existing fabric. But I just worked this one out for someone on Rav who linked to a sweater and wanted to know how recreate the stitch pattern (I also happen to enjoy challenges as this). I thought I would share here as it's a rather pretty and simple stitch. Also it looks attractive on both sides.

This is a 3 color, 3 stitch, 9 row repeat

Use 3 color and work a different color each row. Trail the yarn instead of cutting if working in the round

 the stitch repeat is 3 stitches and 3 rows. but each set of 3 rows shifts 1 stitch so it takes 9 rows to complete.

this is the pattern written for working in the round

Cast on in multiples of 3

CO in multiples of 3

1. s1wyif, p, k
2. k, k, p
3. p, k, k

4. k, s1wyif, p
5. p, k, k
6. k, p, k ,

7. p, k, s1wyif
8. k, p, k
9. k. k. p

If you are working flat this is the written pattern

1. s1wyif, p, k
2. p, k, k
3. p, k, k

4. k, s1wyib, p
5. p, k, k
6. p, k, p

7. p, k, s1wyif
8. p, k, p
9. k. k. p

Here is a chart. I didn't number the rows and you can use it for flat or in the round. Bold is the pattern repeat. I wrote the slip stitch as keeping the yarn on the right side of the fabric in case anyone uses this for flat work. Keeps it from getting over complicated.

Sunday, December 21, 2014

Designing tip

I mostly chart my stuff in Excel. I like it, it's easy and you can do some neat things with it. I'm making a shrug based on a stitch pattern in an old book. The pattern was written so I had to chart it. It's a busy pattern so charting it wasn't the easiest to transfer from flat  written to charted in the round.

This is a section of the chart i printed for decreasing.  Te center is the pattern repeat and the sides are the repeat sections I will be decreasing. I have shaded lines across the chart on the decrease rows and I changed the font for the sections I will decrease to a really light font. I printed this out and it allows me to see what the pattern repeats are supposed to do and I can adjust and over wright with a pen the changes I made as I decrease. I use a pencil and shade in "no stitch" areas as I get rid of sections and can easily decided when it's to narrow to continue in pattern. When I am done I will go back in and make the changes to the chart to reflect what it really needs to be.

The dark row at the bottom is an unaltered pattern repeat for reference to build off of.

Here is what it looks like in progress with notes over written. I take this back to the computer and update the chart.

And this is what I'm working on