Classic 10 point hot pad

Classic 10 Point Hot Pad

You can download the PDF pattern for free

This is a classic pattern that has been around for quite a while. I received one and was asked to reverse engineer it. I have created this pattern from that and I have made changes to the design to suit my liking. The pattern is available for free and this blog post is dedicated to explain some of the steps used to make this hot pad.

Also, remember that I am left handed and I crochet from left to right. The downloadable pattern is not hand bias so there should be no confusion for anyone desiring to follow the written pattern. But if you are right handed, these tutorial images will look backwards to you, just reverse what you see here to work the pattern right handed if using the photos.

This is not intended to be used as a pot holder but rater a decorative hot pad, or trivet if you will, to protect hard surfaces from hot dishes.

And a reminder for those looking at these images; you can click to enlarge any of the images for a better view, the photos are high quality and will show up clear.

I will take you step by step to help you use the techniques I used to create this hot pad.

I hope you enjoy this pattern!

frsc = foundation row single crochet
sc = single crochet
ch = chain
bl = back loop
invisible join = I did a post explaining this technique
sc join = place slip knot on the hook, insert hook into stitch indicated, yo and draw up a loop, yo and draw through both the loop and the slip knot.

The entire is worked in 1 continuous spiral working in the back loops (unless otherwise noted) which shows off the spiral design nicely. (this means there's no slip stitches to join and no chain up's to make).

Center:

With Color A Chain 2, 6sc in 2^nd chain from hook, (do not join) Work 2 sc in each sc around until you have 30 sc. on next round work 1sc in each sc (30 stitches) sc 3 (this just offsets your last stitch). Do not break yarn. (30 stitches on ring)

At this point i have finished my center circle and am about to start my frsc.


*Note: If you really don't want to work the frsc you can skip this tutorial and work as
Round 1: ch20, 1 sc in back loop of next 3 sc on center ring. repeat around to create foundation chain for all 10 points.

Round 2: (working into the chain stitches, NOT the chain space) 1sc in next 10 ch stitches, ch2, 1sc into next 10 ch stitches, sc into next 3 sc. Repeat around. continue one with round 2 of pattern as written


Insert your hook into the space you just worked your last sc on the center ring.

Yarn over and draw up a loop yarn over again

And draw through 1 loop on your hook.

Yarn over and draw through both loops you have on your hook

you have completed your 1st frsc! It should look like this.

For your 2nd frsc you will want to place your hook into the space/v in front and also 1 loop behind in the same stitch.

Yarn over and draw up a loop. which is what I have just done in this photo.

Yarn over and draw through 1 loop, yarn over and draw through both loops on hook completing your 2nd frsc. Repeat this untill you have made 10 frsc

now you need to ch 2 and this will make the turn for the point. You do not need to take your hook out, I only did so it wasn't in the way for taking the photo. Now insert your hook into the base of the last frsc you made (the 10th stitch as shown in this photo) insert your hook thorough the base of the last frsc in same way you have all the other frsc.

Yo and draw up a loop, yo, draw through 1 loop on hook, yo and draw through the 2 loops left on the hook.

Repeat the steps to make the frsc for 10 stitches. When done you will have a total of 20 frsc and a bend where you did the ch2 as shown in this photo. The black lines point to the 1st 10 stitches and the blue lines point to the 2nd 10 stitches.

When you have completed this step, sc into bl of the next 3 sc on the center ring.

Repeat this step all the way around completing all 10 pints. It will be floppy and look like a jumbled up mess, but don't worry it will come together in the end!

When you have reached the last petal and done your last 3 sc. On the last sc leave 2 loops on your hook and break your yarn leaving a good tail to weave in later. Now join in color B. Complete your last sc that you made with color A by hooking color B and pulling through both loops on the hook.

Round 2-4: With color B sc in each sc around, in ch2 points work (1sc in bl of 1^st chain, ch2, work 1sc in bl of 2^nd chain). Continue in this pattern until you have completed 3 rounds of color B. break yarn and join in color A on last stitch.

Round 5: Work 1 round same as above in color A. Crochet around until you are 1 stitch away from where you started. Break yarn and pull through your last stitch. Skip next stitch and work invisible join into 1^st stitch of color A on this round. Weave in ends.

Now your hot pad is nearly complete! Don't worry if it looks a mess. This is what mine looked like after completing round 5.

Border
Take the points and twist them in the same direction (it doesn't matter which direction you twist them so long as they are all twisted the same way) as you work so that the right side of the center is facing you but the wrong side of the points is also facing you.

Round 1: With wrong side of point facing you, start at the chain 2 corner space and count back 8 sc.

With color C, start at the ch 2 space and count back 8 sc, working in both loops join yarn directly with a sc into this stitch. Working through both loops work 1 sc in next 7sc. Sc, ch2sc in corner ch2 space, 1sc in next 8sc. [Twist next point in the same direction and count back 8 single crochet from ch2 space. 1sc in next 8sc, (sc, ch2, sc) in corner ch2 space, 1 sc in next 8sc.] Repeat around until all points are outlined.

Round 2: Working in the back loops of all stitches (including ch stitches); sc in 1st sc of round, 1sc in next 8sc, sc in ch st, ch2, sc in next ch st, 1sc in next 8sc, sc2tog, [1sc in next 8sc, sc in ch st, ch2, sc in next ch st, 1sc in next 8 sc, sc2tog]. Repeat around working your last sc2tog into your 1st st, break yarn leaving a long tail, pull the tail thorugh your last stitch. Skip next stitch and owrk invisible join inot the next sc. Weave tail down to 1st where you made your 1st sc and use it to secure/sew the points together where you joined in color C on round one and the last stitch on the last point of round 1.

I do not know why this image loaded sideways, but this is is a close up of how I finished the edging and weaved in the tail.

Now there is just one more thing you need to do. When it's finished it will look a bit wonky. This is my hot pad just after I finished.

Now just work your way around it straightening out the points and folds and you are done!